Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when i got my gtr the clock didnt work but didnt worry me, and my head light switch s##t it self and got one on ebay and come with dash surround with clock so i chucked it in and works fine, i have heard they are just cheap

Cheers Chris, I've just replaced my headlight switch so perhaps I should give my clock another go.

I did a search on clocks and turned up this post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=3723&hl=clock#

The author mentions something about the power for the clock running from the headunit power?

My headunit is aftermarket. What about you Matt and Steve?

Food for thought, hopefully have time to have a look tomorrow.

Yeah, mine is an aftermarket JVC head deck.

You reckon the installer might of unplugged the clock and not reconnected it.

Could be a good guess.

I tried those 2 fuses marked "Electronic Parts", buggered if i know what they do, installing and removeing a fuse did nothing, as far as i could tell!!LOL!!!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
the clock should have 4 wires going into it, earth, constant 12v, ignition, and illumation.

both the ingtion and constant 12v wires should be on fuses.

I just took a look at the clock.

I have 12.20V constant and 12.20V ignition. I have tried two clocks and I'm stumped.

Next I'll pull the clock apart and see what I can see. Maybe, just maybe I have two dead clocks...?

The clock only fails when the boost has been raised above factory levels. The sneaky Nissan engineers cleverly designed the clock to fail when the AFM voltage exceeded a certain level. When the owners complained of the clock not working, the Nissan dealers simply plugged in the Consult diagnostics tool and noted that the boost level was excessive. This then gave them the evidence needed to refuse engine warranty claims later on.

Or on second thoughts.........maybe the clocks are just cheap pieces of crap.

The clock only fails when the boost has been raised above factory levels. The sneaky Nissan engineers cleverly designed the clock to fail when the AFM voltage exceeded a certain level. When the owners complained of the clock not working, the Nissan dealers simply plugged in the Consult diagnostics tool and noted that the boost level was excessive. This then gave them the evidence needed to refuse engine warranty claims later on.

Or on second thoughts.........maybe the clocks are just cheap pieces of crap.

My car was dyno'd and displayed 12psi. It is a stock ECU with stock turbos and stock AFMs. I thought that was about right? Hrmmm. The highest I've seen my AFM voltage is in the vicinity of 3V - I thought they max out at 5V...?

I appreciate your post Gav but I'm not sure as I've not seen how to use Consult to check the boost level. Which Consult program are you using? I've used different laptop and PDA software and haven't come across boost.

Do you remember your info source please? I'm keen to learn more.

Cheers!

My car was dyno'd and displayed 12psi. It is a stock ECU with stock turbos and stock AFMs. I thought that was about right? Hrmmm. The highest I've seen my AFM voltage is in the vicinity of 3V - I thought they max out at 5V...?

I appreciate your post Gav but I'm not sure as I've not seen how to use Consult to check the boost level. Which Consult program are you using? I've used different laptop and PDA software and haven't come across boost.

Do you remember your info source please? I'm keen to learn more.

Cheers!

Sorry - just me being obtuse and starting another "conspiracy theory"

Definately just a poor quality clock - probably as a result of going way over budget on the development of the GT-R and the production budget had probably dried up by the time they got to finishing bits like the clock.

  • 3 months later...

well i have noticed that as i increase launch rpm my clock reads 00:03, 00:02, 00:01 then 00:60... also when chicks with ample rack walk past it often switching into a flashing mode where it flashes 80:08 on and off until they are out of sight?! other than that it works fine. in fact both my 32 clocks work fine. praise the son of rajab!

Yeah mine clock also does not work when I got the car.

I took the dash off once to fix my speedo cable and when I plugged everything back the clock came back. but after a few days it dissapeared again.

Hope you guys can find out the cause of it and I'll give it a try again. GL

  • 7 months later...

Mine's never worked and was led to believe that it was a common occurence. I started the thread linked to above (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3723), but nothing ever came of that thread :woot:

I would love to have a clock in the car; I'm getting sick of looking at my mobile for the time...

  • 1 year later...
Mine's never worked and was led to believe that it was a common occurence. I started the thread linked to above (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3723), but nothing ever came of that thread :P

I would love to have a clock in the car; I'm getting sick of looking at my mobile for the time...

I agree, totally sick of not having a clock and there is no way im buying a nasty stick-anywhere clock. It would be dynamite if there was a smick looking aftermarket clock that fit nicely into the origional opening. Wishful thinking, hopefully someone comes up with something :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...