Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just rang nissan spares... they're $203.15 plus GST each trade price. Apparently both are in stock in Syd. Can have em delivered to the nearest Nissan dealership.

Retail is $216 plus GST. Big saving :)

hey bl4ck32, any joy with SA nissan on the seals yet? :)

thanks mate! :)

Yup, rang em this arvo, and i got the same as everyone else. I know i got the wrong guy too. Id have to go in there to speak to the guy. But this other nissan knob said $260 a set, or $230 for a bulk purchase of 5...whoopie.

Im going in there i reckon and make sure i get the right guy...always better to speak to them face to face, so i can hassle him some :)

sweet you are a legend. was $260 a set meaning just the one seal, or $260 a set (meaning one left, and one right)? Cause if it's the latter that is still pretty good.

thanks mate, there has been a delay where my car is being painted so i have a few more days up my sleave now to sort this one out.

sweet you are a legend. was $260 a set meaning just the one seal, or $260 a set (meaning one left, and one right)? Cause if it's the latter that is still pretty good.

thanks mate, there has been a delay where my car is being painted so i have a few more days up my sleave now to sort this one out.

Id put money on it being for the one side.

There are a few places in Adelaide that make rubber seals for cars, (like rare spares do for the old holdens) Im gunna try contact a few and see if we can get some made up, like the genuine nissan ones...

Edited by Bl4cK32
mmm maybe instead of making a 32 into a Beer R 324 you are making a 34 into a much more styling 342? :)

this sounds like something id do.

im picking up the window rubber kit tommorrow as theyre in from Japan. Took a week, maybe less, ill let you know what it comes with.

Just rang nissan spares... they're $203.15 plus GST each trade price. Apparently both are in stock in Syd. Can have em delivered to the nearest Nissan dealership.

Retail is $216 plus GST. Big saving :sweat:

he funky, i missed this post. that is the same price i got in sydney, $220 inc GST (trade). but thanks mate :) :)

Hey guys, Im in the process of completely rebuilding my R32 Gtr ground up. It was tidy before (possibly one of the best) but hey im fussy! Prolly like you baron! Anyway i've been told the front and rear glass on the skylines is capsulated, they say that it is very hard to remove without breaking the glass! On top of that ive heard that a genuine front windscreen is around $2000! I prefer to go with genuine nissan stuff but thats crazy! Anyone got any input on the whole glass breaking thing?? Im a little worried. I dont mind changing seals but glass is not an option.

Hey guys, Im in the process of completely rebuilding my R32 Gtr ground up. It was tidy before (possibly one of the best) but hey im fussy! Prolly like you baron! Anyway i've been told the front and rear glass on the skylines is capsulated, they say that it is very hard to remove without breaking the glass! On top of that ive heard that a genuine front windscreen is around $2000! I prefer to go with genuine nissan stuff but thats crazy! Anyone got any input on the whole glass breaking thing?? Im a little worried. I dont mind changing seals but glass is not an option.

well i just had the front screen, rear screen and both quarter windows removed. no breakages thankfully. the place that is painting my car have a specialist glass removing dude come in to do that though. he did mention that the actual rubber seals are glued to the screen?

I have so far spent probably near on $1K just on seals and shit. I used the front mould kit that Kris talked about. It's just the 3 outer moulds and costs $180 trade, $220 retail. I even was going to do gaskets for the goor handles (even thought you can only just see it) but they wont sell seperately, only as a set with a new handle and it's $90 each side and no stock so as i was out of time i just had to draw the line somewhere.

I think to do every seal and mould would be well over $2K probably even approaching $3K just for the parts. and assuming you have access to a trade account. I am trying to source some direct from japan though, so i will see how that goes, but it will be too late for my current build :wave:

well i've now got:

door rubber seals, both sides

front windscreen mould kit

front screen seal kit

front screen locking seal kit

door window moulds/seals (finally)

rear windscreen mould kit (the $$$$$ one)

rear screen seal

rear windscreen locking seal

the only thing left is quarter windows (cant do) and door handle gaskets.

getting there....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...