Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have made a custom temperature gauge to show ambient, intake, oil and turbo temps. I have installed the ambient probe in the bumper area, intake probe right before the throttle body, oil probe in a filter sandwich plate but not sure on the turbo probe. I have the option of either having a probe that is mounted into the upper dump pipe right next to the flange (measures exhaust gas temp), or a thermocouple washer that is bolted directly onto the turbo exhaust flange (measures the turbo housing temp). Any opinions on which would be better? and why? The speed of the response of either thermocouple is very fast.

I have attached a pic for those who want to see the custom gauge.

post-1179-1147851676.jpg

I should have said this before - I will not be putting the EGT probe before the turbo as I'm not willing to pull the turbo and manifold off to fit a temperature probe.

R33S2 - yeah - I designed and made it myself. There's a bit of circuitry and programming behind it though.

Yes you want to know the EGT out of the engine not the turbo for the reading to have any real significance . If it is the washer type thermocouple you may be able to fit it behind a turbine housing mounting nut though put another washer between it and the nut .

Is the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold or turbine housing with RB engines ?

Cheers A .

Could you do something like that in a Tacho, boost, speed etc?

The reason I ask is I've got the microtech Hand controller but the readout is small and I cant monitor just one without all the others, if you know the handset it displays upto 6 or so at once flashing to another 4 other ones.

Or post a link to a DYI?

So this is the same one as in a magazine about 6 yrs ago? A guy with a CA18DET S13 made one up...or is it different? Either way, it looks cool...i have most the parts to make one stashed in a box somewhere..only i couldnt get my hands on the software as the guys email address changed just before i was abotu to build it. So if its the same one id love to get my hands on the software...mind

A guy by the name of Martin had something similar fitted to his 180SX more than a couple years ago yeah, but he had boost, battery voltage, oil temp & EGT. I designed mine specifically for temperatures only because I already have a boost gauge. I used a PICAXE chip in my design and like Martin, will not be publically releasing the source code or entire design for it- Sorry!. If it was a small project that took a day then I'd release details but I've put way too many hours (upwards of 100+ hrs) into the design/construction/coding it to give it away for free.

Will I look into selling them as a kit? - maybe, but I've got other higher priorities in the coming months.

At idle and low rpm’s there is some difference in the EGT’s in the primary pipes, as close as you can get to the valve practically, compared to the EGT’s at the turbine outlet. But as the rpm and exhaust flow increases, the temperature drop becomes negligible. The only reason we measure EGT’s at the primary pipes is to pick differences between cylinders.

Keeping the above in mind, I would place the EGT sensor behind the lambda sensor in the dump pipe. That ensures it doesn’t mask the signal to the lambda sensor.

:fakenopic: cheers :nyaanyaa:

I would say probe in the exhaust gas.

A prone on the turbo itself would not be anywhere near as effective.

the lag between a high temperature event in the gas and a reaction of equal magnitude on the turbo itself would be no good.

Mmm - could the temperature reading from a probe in the exhaust gas be used to accurately determine when to turn the car off after a hard run? Or is "turning the turbo off when it's hot is bad" a myth?

Certainly turning off a hot, plain bearing, oil cooled turbo is a very bad idea. Not quite so bad with a ball bearing, water cooled turbo, but still not a good idea.

What you really need to determine if the turbo is cool enough to turn off is the core temperature. Which is neither the turbine cover temperature or the EGT.

If you have turbo blanket, ceramic coating or wrapping on the dump pipe, I suspect that either turbine cover temperature or the EGT would give you solid indication of what is likely to happen to the core temperature when you turn the engine off.

;) cheers :D

. I used a PICAXE chip in my design and like Martin, will not be publically releasing the source code or entire design for it- Sorry!. If it was a small project that took a day then I'd release details but I've put way too many hours (upwards of 100+ hrs) into the design/construction/coding it to give it away for free.

Hairy muff ;)

I eneded up buying a data logger anyway...but would be good to have a few more channels to montior various temps, instead of having to swap over sensors when i change things

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...