Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have made a custom temperature gauge to show ambient, intake, oil and turbo temps. I have installed the ambient probe in the bumper area, intake probe right before the throttle body, oil probe in a filter sandwich plate but not sure on the turbo probe. I have the option of either having a probe that is mounted into the upper dump pipe right next to the flange (measures exhaust gas temp), or a thermocouple washer that is bolted directly onto the turbo exhaust flange (measures the turbo housing temp). Any opinions on which would be better? and why? The speed of the response of either thermocouple is very fast.

I have attached a pic for those who want to see the custom gauge.

post-1179-1147851676.jpg

I should have said this before - I will not be putting the EGT probe before the turbo as I'm not willing to pull the turbo and manifold off to fit a temperature probe.

R33S2 - yeah - I designed and made it myself. There's a bit of circuitry and programming behind it though.

Yes you want to know the EGT out of the engine not the turbo for the reading to have any real significance . If it is the washer type thermocouple you may be able to fit it behind a turbine housing mounting nut though put another washer between it and the nut .

Is the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold or turbine housing with RB engines ?

Cheers A .

Could you do something like that in a Tacho, boost, speed etc?

The reason I ask is I've got the microtech Hand controller but the readout is small and I cant monitor just one without all the others, if you know the handset it displays upto 6 or so at once flashing to another 4 other ones.

Or post a link to a DYI?

So this is the same one as in a magazine about 6 yrs ago? A guy with a CA18DET S13 made one up...or is it different? Either way, it looks cool...i have most the parts to make one stashed in a box somewhere..only i couldnt get my hands on the software as the guys email address changed just before i was abotu to build it. So if its the same one id love to get my hands on the software...mind

A guy by the name of Martin had something similar fitted to his 180SX more than a couple years ago yeah, but he had boost, battery voltage, oil temp & EGT. I designed mine specifically for temperatures only because I already have a boost gauge. I used a PICAXE chip in my design and like Martin, will not be publically releasing the source code or entire design for it- Sorry!. If it was a small project that took a day then I'd release details but I've put way too many hours (upwards of 100+ hrs) into the design/construction/coding it to give it away for free.

Will I look into selling them as a kit? - maybe, but I've got other higher priorities in the coming months.

At idle and low rpm’s there is some difference in the EGT’s in the primary pipes, as close as you can get to the valve practically, compared to the EGT’s at the turbine outlet. But as the rpm and exhaust flow increases, the temperature drop becomes negligible. The only reason we measure EGT’s at the primary pipes is to pick differences between cylinders.

Keeping the above in mind, I would place the EGT sensor behind the lambda sensor in the dump pipe. That ensures it doesn’t mask the signal to the lambda sensor.

:fakenopic: cheers :nyaanyaa:

I would say probe in the exhaust gas.

A prone on the turbo itself would not be anywhere near as effective.

the lag between a high temperature event in the gas and a reaction of equal magnitude on the turbo itself would be no good.

Mmm - could the temperature reading from a probe in the exhaust gas be used to accurately determine when to turn the car off after a hard run? Or is "turning the turbo off when it's hot is bad" a myth?

Certainly turning off a hot, plain bearing, oil cooled turbo is a very bad idea. Not quite so bad with a ball bearing, water cooled turbo, but still not a good idea.

What you really need to determine if the turbo is cool enough to turn off is the core temperature. Which is neither the turbine cover temperature or the EGT.

If you have turbo blanket, ceramic coating or wrapping on the dump pipe, I suspect that either turbine cover temperature or the EGT would give you solid indication of what is likely to happen to the core temperature when you turn the engine off.

;) cheers :D

. I used a PICAXE chip in my design and like Martin, will not be publically releasing the source code or entire design for it- Sorry!. If it was a small project that took a day then I'd release details but I've put way too many hours (upwards of 100+ hrs) into the design/construction/coding it to give it away for free.

Hairy muff ;)

I eneded up buying a data logger anyway...but would be good to have a few more channels to montior various temps, instead of having to swap over sensors when i change things

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...