Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

THe R32's I've seen appear to all run the crappy H3C bulb.

Crappy because they are expensive and are not available from most places.

The H3 can be fitted but you are required to earth the headlights globe suround in order for them to work.

While your there you may as well slap them on a relay to prevent the common switch burnout problem the R32's have.

The R32's run the full current through the switch, not a relay as it should be done, the result, melted plastic around the contacts.

The only real benefit with the H3 globes is there are 30% and I believe 50% brighter globes are available from Navara (spelling?).

I went to autobarn for the H3C, they wanted $17 each for some generic looking globe.

Unsure what the early model ones run as they don't run projector head lights.

don't they? hmm.. might have to remove mine then :D

I was just looking at it the other week .. the "projector" is h3c.. and the other highbeam is a JA12V.. which I've been told is a standard H3

Non projectors 32 used H4 ( lucky bastards :nyaanyaa: ), i have a projector and i have to imported a H3C from RAY BRIG in Japan as the AutoBarn ones just not bright enough.

Projector lights are normally on late model r32 regardless gtr or not and they used that stupid H3C BUT late model N1 use H4.

I have had projector headlights with both H3C and H1 globes in mine. Not sure when they changed. Only physical difference between was the projector bulb itself. The H3C bulb was more smokey in colour to the H1 which was whiter (i think, i cant remember which way around it was now)

Mine has h1's in the low beam projector. sept 92 model, no idea about the others, haven't had to replace them yet.

Avoid narva like the plague, i bought a twin pack of the arctic white and they both died within 2 weeks of each other 6 months later.

  • 5 weeks later...

In QLD at least, a blue tinge is not considered to be a "blue" light and is not defectable.

In my R32 Type M '93 I just replaced the headlights with H1's (55W of course) and I replaced the park light that had died with a W5W - which is a 12V - 5 Watt standard bulb.

Funnily enough, the W5W parker bulb cost $6 on its own, when all the other parker bulbs (12V with slightly less watts) were 2 for $5 of $6, what a rip!

Some idiot before me put in a H1 - 100W Rally light in my headlight, instead of a normal 55W, it kept melting the fuse at the fuse box, and also melted the plastic around the globe itself. Let it be known to everyone, just because it's higher in watts, doesn't mean it's brighter. The new H1 55W I put in, is a lot brighter, and I now have good headlights, whereas before I could hardly tell I had my headlights on sometimes.

Fixxxer :D

i have a 91 R32 GTR, it had the projector type with the H3C bulb in it, they are soo cr a p at night i just couldn't hadle it.

my mate has a 93 R32 GTR & he has different looking head lights, they take a H4

easy fix, i put 93 R32 Headlights in mine & now run PIAA H4 Bulbs & can now see at night!

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...