Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I am new to this forum and have joined it to ask your advice.

My 97 year old mother passed away last month and I have to sell her beloved Skyline which she still drove.

It's a one owner 1981 Skyline Silhoulette (spelling). It's in original condition and I thinks it's done about 130,000 km. It has a couple of dents and needs a tidy up, but I have no idea if it's a car that's of interest.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118519-early-skyline-whats-it-worth/
Share on other sites

Hello Gronkey. Welcome to the club, sorry to hear about your ma.

I've seen manual rb30de skylines of that era going for $1500-2500 which is what I'd pay for one if it was manual.

Another place you may like to try to value it would be the r31skylineclub.com just hit their forums up.

there were no mr30 silos, if its a silo it will be a R31 (1986-1990)

someonestolecc, they are single cam rb30e.

if its fairly clean and well looked after you would be able to get around 3 grand for it, if your willing to wait. if its auto itd be worth alot less

Hi guys,

I am new to this forum and have joined it to ask your advice.

My 97 year old mother passed away last month and I have to sell her beloved Skyline which she still drove.

It's a one owner 1981 Skyline Silhoulette (spelling). It's in original condition and I thinks it's done about 130,000 km. It has a couple of dents and needs a tidy up, but I have no idea if it's a car that's of interest.

You got pics you can post, as I might be interested IF it's an 1981.

Cheers D

You got pics you can post, as I might be interested IF it's an 1981.

Cheers D

Sorry about the delay but I can't get to the car to take pics until Monday.

It's 1981, white, auto, Vin MGC210100372, eng no. L24385835.

Passed full inspection for rego last November.

Situated on Gold Coast.

L24e engine then

so it is a r30 skyline

nice

I don't think so!

Engine number is L24 which would indicate a carburetted engine making it a C210.

If it's in fact an L24E it is most likely an C211, but with an MGC210 VIN I wouls imagine it is in no way an R30.

Cheers, D

I don't think so!

Engine number is L24 which would indicate a carburetted engine making it a C210.

If it's in fact an L24E it is most likely an C211, but with an MGC210 VIN I wouls imagine it is in no way an R30.

Cheers, D

No, it is injected ... I tokk the numbers from the rego papers but I'll post all the numbers off the build plate and a pic tomorrow night.

Cheers,

Gronker

Here's a white one I prepared earlier... :)

That's it Matty T

I've tried to upload pictures but it won't happen. I don't know why as I've uploaded plenty of pics to other forums.

Anyway it's the same as Matty T's pics except that its got rub strips down both sides.

The numbers are;

Datsun Skyline Sedan E C210

Engine L24E Code L24E - A

Build 2/81

So, is anyone interested in it?

Edited by Gronker

Hi Peter, can you email pics to me please (alfadog at big pond dot net dot au)?

C111 were not sold here as far as I know. The "1" was used in Japan to signify different (more stringent) emission conrtols on the car - NOT to do with the "facelift".

This car is not really very valuable unfortunately. I would say you'd be lucky to get anything over $2000 for it, but perhaps some of the C210 experts could correct me here! I have never looked to buy one.

dammit, im late in this thread,

C210 sedan.

81 model were all injected, and for their age are quite nice to drive, they came with power steering aircon and power windows, the lucky ones also got power mirrors.

i have one of these which i picked up almost a year ago for 1600 dollars, registered. mine had bad paint though.

they are quite difficult to sell, but if your not in a hurry, it will sell eventually.

i currently have one for sale and also two coupes of the same model.

even though most people beat me to the punch, i hope this helped,

Jason

dammit, im late in this thread,

C210 sedan.

81 model were all injected, and for their age are quite nice to drive, they came with power steering aircon and power windows, the lucky ones also got power mirrors.

i have one of these which i picked up almost a year ago for 1600 dollars, registered. mine had bad paint though.

they are quite difficult to sell, but if your not in a hurry, it will sell eventually.

i currently have one for sale and also two coupes of the same model.

even though most people beat me to the punch, i hope this helped,

Jason

Sorry about the delay in replying as I've been away.

Thanks a lot Jason, you're spot on with you're description, and it looks the same as Matty T's pics (post #12).

As I said originally it's got a couple of dents and some surface rust but it MUST BE SOLD to wind up the estate. It's located at Nerang on the Gold Coast

I'm open to any offers. Just pm me or if you want to contact me by e-mail it's .. [email protected]

I'll try again to upload pics but if they don't show, it's the same as Matt T's pics.

post-29107-1149146105.jpg

post-29107-1149146177.jpg

post-29107-1149146197.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...