Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have the following mods:

fmic, turbosmart dual stage boost controller, apexi s-afc 2, k and n pod filter.

before i got the safc2 installed i tried boosting it too 12-13 psi and i was getting this hiccup in the engine when i put my foot to the floor, and i thought it would have to be the a/f ratios, so i decided to get the safc 2 as the power fc was way out of my budget, for $900 i got the safc 2, had it installed and dynoed.

as it was being dynoed on high boost of just under 13 psi it was doing that hiccup thing again, and eventually the guy must have tuned them out cos it wasnt doing it anymore. so i was happy. took the car home and for a few days it was fine, but then it started doing the hiccup thing again, not as often as before but still there and very embarassing when wanting to drag sumone, the whole car would shudder for a second or 2, and keep going, it would literally jerk.

does anyone have any idea what this could be and how to fix it???

sumone said that the boost level was too high and was blowing out the spark in the plugs, so i bought new ones, ngk platinums and regapped them to 0.8 mm, but no improvement, the only way to avoid it is by using a maximum of 75% throttle.

any help would be appreciated...:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/
Share on other sites

thanx for the replies.

the safc 2 takes care of the boost cut, could be fuel pump,

i did turn my boost down a bit, but no help, if i turn it down anymore there wont be any point boosting it

i think the best bet is to get it redynoed but i thought there might be a simpler solution

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-211025
Share on other sites

if this hiccup is around 5000rpm, then it is most likely the same spark problem that all the R33 owners get after boosting their cars.

Have a search in here for "misfire" or "5000rpm" and you'll see other peoples replies.

I think they were saying to gat the plugs to 0.7 (I think)

good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-211380
Share on other sites

Change your fuel filter, you should do this regularly anyhow.

The fuel pump issue, will play out like this;

* try getting up to 5000rpm in 1st using light throttle, then at 5000rpm cruise put your foot flat to the floor. If the same issue occurs straight away it's probably not your fuel pump. If it allows you to gun it through first and then starts doing its thing in 2nd or 3rd then the fuel pump might be at fault.

The spark plugs maybe too hot for the load. Try a range or two colder. Buy cheap copper ones.

Check your base timing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-212547
Share on other sites

ive just changed the fuel filter so its not that, it was doing it before and after the change.

i dont think it happens in 1st at all, but in 2nd and 3rd it does only when i put my foot to the floor on high boost.

i think the heat range for my plugs are a 6, could b 7, cant remember

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-212559
Share on other sites

My car is doing the exact same thing, I got new spark plugs put in today gapped .8mm. Its been on the dyno yesturday and today and turning the boost down from 1bar isn't helping. I have a standard ECU which will be replaced by a powerFC as soon as I get around to ordering one.

Yesturday I only managed 175.1hp on the dyno.

Tommorow I might have another go.

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-212906
Share on other sites

If it happens when you hit 2nd or 3rd from a standing start test and doesn't act up at all through 1st gear then the fuel pump is perhaps at fault.

When I say standing start or rolling start run at 5000rpm I mean going from 1st through all the gears to 4th as if racing. You might only get to 2nd when it occurs. If it occurs in the later gears and not the 1st fueling is the issue.

It could be ecu 'fuel cut' also.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-214337
Share on other sites

i was told the safc 2 removed fuel cut?

becos i had a fuel cut defender in there before i got the safc 2 and when i got the safc 2 installed he said i dont need the fuel cut defender anymor

i'll take the car for a thrash and see if it does it in 1st or not...

i was actually driving it pretty hard yesterday on high boost and it didnt do it once, seems to do it when ever it feels like it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-214401
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...