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Is it worth considering a cheaper run down GTR or should you spend the extra money to track down a good example. I am fairly good with all things mechanical and electrical. I built my LC from a bare shell having nothing at all, not even nuts and bolts to start with. I would find someone to do the motor and gearbox but everything else seems do-able. Am i kidding myself here or what?

You can get R32 RB26's for $4K if you look hard enough.

So long as you go in with your eyes open and give it the once over to make sure there's no major dramas its fine. Just depends how much time you want to spend dicking around with your car as opposed to driving it.

Is it worth considering a cheaper run down GTR or should you spend the extra money to track down a good example. I am fairly good with all things mechanical and electrical. I built my LC from a bare shell having nothing at all, not even nuts and bolts to start with. I would find someone to do the motor and gearbox but everything else seems do-able. Am i kidding myself here or what?

The best advice you will get relating to an R32 GT-R is this:

Buy a good one, not a cheap one.

The difference between the cheap one & the good ones is only a few thousand dollars. This will disapper quite quickly is you need to replace major componentry. To use but one example a new set of brake pads & rotors will cost you about $1500 fitted. You get alot of extra bling on a second hand R32 for $1500...

To use but one example a new set of brake pads & rotors will cost you about $1500 fitted.

You always pay a shiet load more when having people work on your car. You could save $300 on the $1500 price tag by shopping around and buying the parts your self.

The GTR price has dropped but there are still good examples out there, good, clean, stockies for $20k and less it seems. I agree they can be cheap to buy but as long as you are aware that running and maintenance costs can be pretty high then you wont be shocked when the bill comes in. I'm hoping to hold onto mine as I think as time goes on the good ones will hold their value as more get crashed and wrecked.

I have two GTRs. I've own the grey one for 13 months and in that time I've fitted new spark plugs, new battery, new front rotors, new pads all round, new braided brake hoses, new coilovers, its had two services, two dyno tunes, tyres rotated and balanced & a wheel alignment. This car came from Japan in awesome condition with all its books and service history.

In the white GTR I had to fit new spark plugs, a new battery, new upper control arm bushes, new clutch, new tyres, had the air conditioner regassed (twice), a service, a dyno tune, all rotors machined, and new brake pads all round.

Bottom line is GTRs cost money - be prepared to fork some out, especially if you're buying one for less than $20,000.

I've own the grey one for 13 months and in that time I've fitted new spark plugs, new battery, new front rotors, new pads all round, new braided brake hoses, new coilovers, its had two services, two dyno tunes, tyres rotated and balanced & a wheel alignment. This car came from Japan in awesome condition with all its books and service history.

In the white GTR I had to fit new spark plugs, a new battery, new upper control arm bushes, new clutch, new tyres, had the air conditioner regassed (twice), a service, a dyno tune, all rotors machined, and new brake pads all round.

Even with a GTST you have to do those things... the cars are getting old now and need work on the a/c, bushes and general wear and tear items.

Heres a list for my general costs over the last four years and 60,km's

$4,200 for twin plate {os gilken} old one was slipping by 120, k

$2,200 discs and pads all round neeeded doing 120, k

$10,000 N1 turbos required, dump pipes, manifold, gaskets etc. OLd ones leaking oil at 130, k

$200 cooling system flush just in case

$800 Air flow meter 3X pain in the ass $300-$350 for meter and $450 dyno and fault finding plus labour

$1000 front bushes Old 1's nackered at 135, k

$600 rear cradle bushes old 1's nackered at 125,k aluminium cones put in . work better, prevent body roll

$1600 100, k service Due and needed timing belt tensioners replaced.

$800 timing belt tensioners nackered again plus service 135, k fishy 1's werth $400

list can go on and on so when you chuck in water pump ,fuel pump, tyres{7 pair's} plus services at 5,thou intrevals as you can guess lots of dollars any way.

Then theres the mod list hehe exhaust, power fc, intercooler ,pipe work, window tint, stereo, alram and speakers to name a few.

now my car cost $35,000 and is the last of the 32 gtr's being a 1994

so i guess it dosent matter how old it is , they a still bl##dy expensive to have and drive

Bloody FUN drive but :PBJ:

Heres a list for my general costs over the last four years and 60,km's

$4,200 for twin plate {os gilken} old one was slipping by 120, k

$2,200 discs and pads all round neeeded doing 120, k

$10,000 N1 turbos required, dump pipes, manifold, gaskets etc. OLd ones leaking oil at 130, k

$200 cooling system flush just in case

$800 Air flow meter 3X pain in the ass $300-$350 for meter and $450 dyno and fault finding plus labour

$1000 front bushes Old 1's nackered at 135, k

$600 rear cradle bushes old 1's nackered at 125,k aluminium cones put in . work better, prevent body roll

$1600 100, k service Due and needed timing belt tensioners replaced.

$800 timing belt tensioners nackered again plus service 135, k fishy 1's werth $400

Your mechanic obviously lives on the French Riviera and flies here 1st class just to service your car.......

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