Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ahh yes! get in now, suprise them downt south at the july track day :ermm:

Even just with the turbo working properly it will be a surprise..last time I was there I was limited to 210rwkw before the clutch started slipping

Even just with the turbo working properly it will be a surprise..last time I was there I was limited to 210rwkw before the clutch started slipping

this is true

fingers crossed nothing goes wrong this time :ermm:

Ian,

Regardless of the big end being spun, you will still have to do machine work, pistons, rods, rings and service the head. Then you look at turbos so kiss 5k there away by the time you add dumps etc. What about cams that can be another 1500 - 2000 gone right there. And theres the small things like speedflow fittings, braided hose, brackets and fittings that swallow a lot of cash really quickly.

shane thats because you have set huge power figures for yourself and you spun a bigend, both of which I have not done.

25k doesnt include a new gearbox to handle such power or diffs, so realisticly to build a reliable gtr 25k will be the end price, no matter on power figure.

jesus christ i went to bed at 4:30 pm and just woke up ready to go clubbing thinking it was about 7:00pm :|

i lol at ur stupidity :(

Ian,

Regardless of the big end being spun, you will still have to do machine work, pistons, rods, rings and service the head. Then you look at turbos so kiss 5k there away by the time you add dumps etc. What about cams that can be another 1500 - 2000 gone right there. And theres the small things like speedflow fittings, braided hose, brackets and fittings that swallow a lot of cash really quickly.

spoken like a man who'se built a car himself :)

Still troy, I think with 20k you can build quite a reliable RB26 to put out 400 HP if you allready have the engine with money left to spare to respray the car.

u can do it cheaply, but dont expect it to hold together for too long. hence the price figures that go along with any type of decent and reliable build. You dont start realising how much it cots until ur half way trhough it, and then its too late.

All this talk about GTR's and the cost to rebuild them is scaring me....... I think I will stick to my RB25 and see what I can get out of it safely. Plus paint it. Plus a new turbo. Plus new injectors.

Still cheaper than the GTR and any needed rebuild.

All this talk about GTR's and the cost to rebuild them is scaring me....... I think I will stick to my RB25 and see what I can get out of it safely. Plus paint it. Plus a new turbo. Plus new injectors.

Still cheaper than the GTR and any needed rebuild.

And 90% of the time just as fun...if not more, response FTW (And before anyone says it yes GTRs even stock are laggy)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...