Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fark yeah thats a nice list :( . I am lining up a set of Tomei cams but i might look at the HKS as they are only a little dearer but they have a better name, i spose you get what you pay for.

since when ahs HKS had a better name for engine components than Tomei :):D :D

ha ha sorry Tomei fan here

Honestlly Andy im with you, my personal belief if that if I was to buy cams then id be buying Tomei.

Not that i know ones better than the other, cause i dont.

Its like panadol, if i got a headache i buy panadol nothing else. Cause i know it works and its what ive always used.

Fixed your grammar for you col and i don't really care.

Yeah i miss words all the time, spelling is not my strong suit either.

But i guess sitting on the floor typing is not so good for the back either.

Need to buy a new desk, I gave away our old one when we moved, silly.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...