Jump to content
SAU Community

Fhrxstudios Stagea Install

wolverine
 Share

Recommended Posts

fergo308 Rising Star

fergo308

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looks like yellow from here.

I've been racking my brain trying to find a way to make it a win-win with my own stereo install. my head unit went straight in,the splits in the front and rear doors were easy enough,the rears went straight in,the fronts needed some tricky brackets to mount the cross overs,and custom baffles to mount the mids,but weren't THAT hard.

what's got me stuffed is how am I going to get the rest into the car without permanently losing boot space or the spare wheel? I'm constantly moving large items in the back of my car,so it must retain pretty much the full volume in the rear.

I need to get two smallish amps,a 6 stacker,and a boxed 12" subwoofer into it somewhere.

there's a bit of room behind the N/SR quarter trim which will take a decently sized amp if you are patient with bracketry. that takes care of one.

the sub I'll have to make removeable,and will likely place it in a similar fashion to the above design. that's two.

anyone have any ideas for the stacker and other amp? they won't fit under the seats. I've yet to investigate what's behind the O/SR quarter trim other than the ATTESSA reservoir. I'm hoping I can squeeze the stacker in that corner,or possibly the amp. I MIGHT be able to fit the stacker in hanging on the under-side of the spare wheel cover,but I'm not sure if that will be rigid enough for it to not skip.

any ideas guys? what have you put into your cars so far?

Justin...

Edited by fergo308
wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

fergo, the stacker i want to use will fit under the drivers seat but it won't go under the passenger seat. if you are looking for other places have a look under the floor next to the space saver, you may be able to squeeze something in there. alternatively remove the spacesaver and buy a can of tyre goop.

EGA the sub boxes are small vol enclosures(well spotted) with subs that are suited for very small enclosures, they work well with volumes down to 15L (although i'm not sure what vol these are at this point). the aim was to lose nothing behind the strut towers to keep as much of that space as possible.

we would probably never have laid the seats down but we need the larger opening that the rear door offers.

Terminal Grand Master

Terminal

Posted
Posted

i have open air subs in my car, so my sub box doesn't have a back on it. when my gallery is back up i'll show you my pics, but my box can be unplugged relatively easily and just slides out when i need the boot space.

Fhrx Rising Star

Fhrx

Posted
Posted
that sub box is a very neat install... not much volume to it but looks awesome

The enclosure gives 18.3 litres for each subwoofer. Based on the Thiele / Small's of the 27V2's this will return a Q of about 0.69. That will offer tight bass with a deep natural roll off but will still boom just enough to deal with the large interior of the wagon. :cheers:

oxford1327 Experienced

oxford1327

Posted
Posted

my s2 has a nissan stacker installed in the rear passenger side trim cavity but it has no disc cassette in it, id be willing to sell it if anyone wants it? theycan have it for 50bucks if they want it?

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

My idea for a sub is to put a single 10" or 12" in a longish box along the driver's side between the strut tower and the tailgate.

I'm hoping to figure out a way to hinge it so I can stil get to the ATESSA reservoir and the small compartment next to it, and loading of the sub will be against the strut tower - the box will be angle-cut to kind of match the shape of the strut tower and face the sub towards it. It might be better to face the sub rearwards and load it against the tailgate, but I'm going for a stealth system, and having the sub showing every time you open the boot kinda defeats the purpose...

Hopefully I won't lose too much boot space this way, and I'll still be able to fold the seats down and use the length available.

My only issue now is money - I've got the front splits and they are ready to go in, but I'm kinda waiting to at least buy the rears as well and before I start the install...

fergo308 Rising Star

fergo308

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the advice Wolverine,I'll check out the space under the driver's seat. hopefully it's a little bigger in there than under the passenger side,which was too short by all of 5mm...

I've thought about dumping the micro-spare,but with the numerous punctures i've been getting over the last few months,I doubt I could live without one.

I would love to build the sub into the boot floor using the spare's cavity,but it just isn't practical,and anything I could fit in on top of the wheel is too small for a ZR12 woofer. it'll have to go into a removeable box.

what sized amps are you guys running,and where/how did you get them into the car?

Justin...

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

IF?????? you want to get rid of the spare, why not mount it outside a'la 4WD

Think of the messarges you could put on the wheelcover. I'm pretty computer illiterate but I know some of you guys are good at artistic endevours.

Lets see some lateral thinking.

mike40sydney Experienced

mike40sydney

Posted
Posted

just a thort y not mount the amps and stacker in the sub box if you need to remove it just unplug and take out may need some fancy switching to set up speakers to run without the amp but im sure it could be worked out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • WMDC35
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...