Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks like yellow from here.

I've been racking my brain trying to find a way to make it a win-win with my own stereo install. my head unit went straight in,the splits in the front and rear doors were easy enough,the rears went straight in,the fronts needed some tricky brackets to mount the cross overs,and custom baffles to mount the mids,but weren't THAT hard.

what's got me stuffed is how am I going to get the rest into the car without permanently losing boot space or the spare wheel? I'm constantly moving large items in the back of my car,so it must retain pretty much the full volume in the rear.

I need to get two smallish amps,a 6 stacker,and a boxed 12" subwoofer into it somewhere.

there's a bit of room behind the N/SR quarter trim which will take a decently sized amp if you are patient with bracketry. that takes care of one.

the sub I'll have to make removeable,and will likely place it in a similar fashion to the above design. that's two.

anyone have any ideas for the stacker and other amp? they won't fit under the seats. I've yet to investigate what's behind the O/SR quarter trim other than the ATTESSA reservoir. I'm hoping I can squeeze the stacker in that corner,or possibly the amp. I MIGHT be able to fit the stacker in hanging on the under-side of the spare wheel cover,but I'm not sure if that will be rigid enough for it to not skip.

any ideas guys? what have you put into your cars so far?

Justin...

Edited by fergo308

fergo, the stacker i want to use will fit under the drivers seat but it won't go under the passenger seat. if you are looking for other places have a look under the floor next to the space saver, you may be able to squeeze something in there. alternatively remove the spacesaver and buy a can of tyre goop.

EGA the sub boxes are small vol enclosures(well spotted) with subs that are suited for very small enclosures, they work well with volumes down to 15L (although i'm not sure what vol these are at this point). the aim was to lose nothing behind the strut towers to keep as much of that space as possible.

we would probably never have laid the seats down but we need the larger opening that the rear door offers.

i have open air subs in my car, so my sub box doesn't have a back on it. when my gallery is back up i'll show you my pics, but my box can be unplugged relatively easily and just slides out when i need the boot space.

that sub box is a very neat install... not much volume to it but looks awesome

The enclosure gives 18.3 litres for each subwoofer. Based on the Thiele / Small's of the 27V2's this will return a Q of about 0.69. That will offer tight bass with a deep natural roll off but will still boom just enough to deal with the large interior of the wagon. :cheers:

my s2 has a nissan stacker installed in the rear passenger side trim cavity but it has no disc cassette in it, id be willing to sell it if anyone wants it? theycan have it for 50bucks if they want it?

My idea for a sub is to put a single 10" or 12" in a longish box along the driver's side between the strut tower and the tailgate.

I'm hoping to figure out a way to hinge it so I can stil get to the ATESSA reservoir and the small compartment next to it, and loading of the sub will be against the strut tower - the box will be angle-cut to kind of match the shape of the strut tower and face the sub towards it. It might be better to face the sub rearwards and load it against the tailgate, but I'm going for a stealth system, and having the sub showing every time you open the boot kinda defeats the purpose...

Hopefully I won't lose too much boot space this way, and I'll still be able to fold the seats down and use the length available.

My only issue now is money - I've got the front splits and they are ready to go in, but I'm kinda waiting to at least buy the rears as well and before I start the install...

Thanks for the advice Wolverine,I'll check out the space under the driver's seat. hopefully it's a little bigger in there than under the passenger side,which was too short by all of 5mm...

I've thought about dumping the micro-spare,but with the numerous punctures i've been getting over the last few months,I doubt I could live without one.

I would love to build the sub into the boot floor using the spare's cavity,but it just isn't practical,and anything I could fit in on top of the wheel is too small for a ZR12 woofer. it'll have to go into a removeable box.

what sized amps are you guys running,and where/how did you get them into the car?

Justin...

IF?????? you want to get rid of the spare, why not mount it outside a'la 4WD

Think of the messarges you could put on the wheelcover. I'm pretty computer illiterate but I know some of you guys are good at artistic endevours.

Lets see some lateral thinking.

just a thort y not mount the amps and stacker in the sub box if you need to remove it just unplug and take out may need some fancy switching to set up speakers to run without the amp but im sure it could be worked out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...