Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 242
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

250kms if I am lucky..

PULP and Octane Booster. No access to 98, so I run BP PULP and I used Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster as insurance as our fuel is not the best up here. Tuned on PULP..

Worst tank 165kms

Best tank 330kms

Most fun tank was definitely the 165km tank..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/5/#findComment-2326771
Share on other sites

i used to get about 300km/tank

i put some wynns injector cleaner in a few weeks ago, and it got 400km, and have had consistantly over 350km since :O

anyone know any ways to stop the stock ecu running so damn rich?

i cleaned my car last week, used about 2 tanks of fuel on the weekend, and have a MASSIVE fuel stain on the back already.

i can hold my hand to the exhaust, and i get black dots on it!

safc II help perhaps?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/5/#findComment-2353381
Share on other sites

My car gets similar economy to Gazza750's...R32 GTR, most km's i've ever had to a tank was 480, driving only in metro area. Usually get around 450 - 460. I run 0.9 bar of boost and i've worked out that with the mines rom, my car likes a bit of a poke for the first 1/4 to 1/3 of a tank as it seems to burn more efficiently or something. After that I drive it pretty tame, as the tune is very rich. High speed really chews through the juice - even just a short stint :P If I incorporate a cruise, i'll be lucky to make 400km to the tank.

Car is my daily driver. If I fill up once the empty light is on, i'm looking at $85 - $90 for medium priced Ultimate 98 (I find the price ranges between 1.41 and 1.51 p/l). I get through that in less than a week. Car has a few nice mods but is relatively stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/5/#findComment-2380463
Share on other sites

Not sure if the tank is bigger but I got roughly 550kms with 1/8 of a tank left on a run from Kalgoorlie back to Perth... Forgot to add, that was doing 120km p/h majority of the drive..

She doesn't like city driving, seems to chew threw it pretty quick!!

Edited by StageaGirl
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/5/#findComment-2381805
Share on other sites

Most I have got is 520 kms driving like an old man around town while I was still living in Sydney, but on a long haul I sneak up to 580 + Kms....

Track day at Eastern Creek = 170 or so Kms...

Driving around town normally 480 +kms

Driving around with a bit of gusto 350-ish

That is all

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120328-fuel/page/5/#findComment-2382015
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Threads merged. Only need one for the same question.
    • Hi everyone, I'm about to complete my first single turbo conversion on my R32 GTR and I thought I would post the step by steps that I will be following. I will list the parts I have / the parts I will be buying. I will be redoing this guide after I have completed the conversion. Parts list: - 3576 turbo 0.82 v-band (coolant and oil)  - v-band top mount turbo manifold - 50mm wastegate - manifold copper gasket - titanium manifold stud kit - turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid - link can lambda kit (wideband) - link ECU - radium 12AN push in valve cover fittings (pair) - hi octane catch can - 3.5inch downpipe - screamer pipe - pipe from turbo to intercooler - intake pipe setup - power steering relocation kit - oil drain block off plate - coolant and oil lines Now onto the step by step guide (please add / correct me if there's anything I missed: 1. remove fluids, twin turbo pipes, pod filters and afm's 2. remove the factory coolant hardlines from the hot side. 3. remove heat shields  4. remove the downpipe 5. remove turbos and manifolds 6. remove factory manifold studs 7. clean whatever mess you have made 8. install power steering relocation kit 9. install new manifold studs 10. install new turbo manifold with gasket 11. install new wastegate with screamer pipe 12. install new turbo  13. install new coolant and oil lines  14. install rear oil drain block off plate 15. stop and appreciate that you now have a single turbo in your GTR 16. wipe away tears of joy and install downpipe 17. install the wideband sensor into downpipe 18.install pipe to connect turbo to intercooler 19 .remove stock boost solenoid  20. install new boost solenoid 21.  install intake setup 22. setup the rest of the can lambda kit with the ecu  23. refill fluids and hope for the best 24. ask forums for help with issues 25. fix issues 26. drive your single turbo swapped r32 GTR into the sunset. Doneeeeeeeeeee. Now I know this isn't detailed at all but I will be doing that when the conversion is done. I will be posting pics and any helpful details i can and ill make sure to fit in as much information as I can. If there's anything I should know before i do this PLEASE let me know. Stay tuned for what's next. Thanks...
    • I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
×
×
  • Create New...