Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HOWTO: Disable R33 Door Unlock Button

Intended Audience: Anyone concerned about their car safety

Technical Level: Low

Duration: 15 minutes

Effort: Low

Result: Very High

!!!Caution/Achtung/Attenzione!!!

Follow this guide at your own risk. You have been warned. We are not responsible for any actions you take. The information contained herein is a guide and should *not* be acted upon with consultation from your local tuner (he/she may not agree with my comments / suggestions). If you are unsure or are not confident don't do it.

This guide shows you how to disable the door unlock button on the R33 Skyline. It is a common known security flaw that this button works when the car is locked/alarm is on. Thieves can bend back your window and then press this button to unlock the passenger door. Once this has been done they are free to enter your car and do as they please. The factory alarm doesn't seem to be triggered by this break in method.

Tools you will need;

Phillipshead Screwdriver

Electrical Tape

Scissors or Pliers

1. Open driver side door. Remove the screw cover inside the door handle area and undo the phillips head screw. Carefully lift up the Power Window / Door Button harness cradle from the door.

post-2054-1149320362.jpg

2. Locate the wiring loom attached to the end of the controller unit and cut the Brown wire. Once this wire has been cut tape up both ends with Electrical tape.

post-2054-1149320460.jpg

post-2054-1149320543.jpg

3. Put keys into your ignition and turn to ACC. Test to see if the door unlock button works. It shouldn't

4. Tape up the remaining part of the loom and place the cradle back into the door. Screw it back into place and place the screw cover back on.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Sounds like a good idea, but you loose the door unlock function to go with it I take it? I do actually find this very handy as my alarm auto locks the doors when driving & I let passengers in & out with it a lot.

If you had a relay linked to the ignition power it would still allow this function to be used while securing your car when it is locked/alarmed too.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

youll have to pull out your door lock button and have a look.

i dont see why they would have changed it for the gtt.

the wiring should be common on all the skylines, at least you would expect

Sounds like a good idea, but you loose the door unlock function to go with it I take it? I do actually find this very handy as my alarm auto locks the doors when driving & I let passengers in & out with it a lot.

If you had a relay linked to the ignition power it would still allow this function to be used while securing your car when it is locked/alarmed too.

best idea. there is an IGN feed already there to do it.

  • 3 weeks later...
Sounds like a good idea, but you loose the door unlock function to go with it I take it? I do actually find this very handy as my alarm auto locks the doors when driving & I let passengers in & out with it a lot.

If you had a relay linked to the ignition power it would still allow this function to be used while securing your car when it is locked/alarmed too.

just finished doin this on my dad's ceffy (which also has the same button in a similar position). Made sure the switch only worked when the alarm was disabled by using an alternate earth signal (which I got from the ignition switch).

  • 6 months later...

I have a '97 skyline r33 Series II. I tried pressing the passenger window button when i locked the car with the alarm on and the window didnt come down. I also tried it on the drivers side button while doors were closed and the window didnt come down. This exploit must of been fixed in the '97 skylines?

I have a '97 skyline r33 Series II. I tried pressing the passenger window button when i locked the car with the alarm on and the window didnt come down. I also tried it on the drivers side button while doors were closed and the window didnt come down. This exploit must of been fixed in the '97 skylines?

nope your talking about a completely different button... its not the power window switches..

its the passenger door unlock button.. Just below the passenger window button

  • 8 months later...

whats/wheres the ignition switch ?

i wana do this, but make it so it still works when the cars turned on.

just finished doin this on my dad's ceffy (which also has the same button in a similar position). Made sure the switch only worked when the alarm was disabled by using an alternate earth signal (which I got from the ignition switch).
whats/wheres the ignition switch ?

i wana do this, but make it so it still works when the cars turned on.

You need to buy a relay and switch it via the IGN wire on the connector.

If you need help i could do it for you, you just need to go to Jaycar, or wherever, and buy the relay.

oh ya i found the ign wire just now with the multimeter. think its the big yellow one.

couldnt i just chop the brown wire and connect it the yellow/ign ??

with the relay there will be 3 points ya ?? what would i connect them upto

thanks :thumbsup:

Have looked for the last 1/2hr for the farken life of me i can't find a simple farken wiring diagram for a common farken relay. Therefore i can't tell ya what to hook up to where.

THE WEB IS FULL OF USELESS SHIT!!!

You need one pin to hook to ACC

the 2nd to hook to GND

The 3rd to one half of the brown wire

The 4th to the other half of the brown wire.

I think it's:

Pin 86 => Acc

Pin 85 => GND

Pin 87 => 1st half of Brown wire

Pin 30 => 2nd half of Brown wire

Your common 10amp relay is more than enough.

ya i was looking on google 2.. 'howto use a relay' etc etc. then i got tired of looking and pm'd you :thumbsup:

3 --/ -- 5

1 --88-- 2

is on the relay i got

That should be it!

Pin 1 = ACC

Pin 2 = GND

Pin 3 = 1st half of Brown wire

Pin 5 = 2nd half of Brown wire

post-1811-1198678615_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...