Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have lowered it on king springs, replaced the shockies, put 20's on it. the suspension holds up pretty well at the moment. i was going to put tein coil overs in, but it is managing well with the new shockies. as for tyres, it has 255's on the 20's on the rear which grip well. what else are the essentials that i need to run this turbo well. it wasnt a crappy ebay turbo, i bort it from a wholesaler for $2100. the price doesnt matter tho, i already have the turbo and all i want to know is what are the bare essentials needed to run it properly without f**king up the stock internals

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Are you sure that you can fit this turbo without the manifold and gate? I think you may be better off getting ECU and fuel system sorted out before you fit the turbo, also find out a bit more about whats invoved in fitting it. If it has a ar 0.7 front cover it will take some swearing to low mount it on a standard manifold. Most likely will need a highmount manifold. Is the turbo internally gated? Ill add some pics of a 35/40 setup so you get an idea of whats involved for its installation.

This R33 runs a GT35/40 with ar.82 exhaust housing on XTR highmount manifold. Custom dump pipe.

Turbosmart 35mm wastegate.

Microtech LTx12s ECU

580cc Rochester injectors

Malpassi rising rate fuel reg

Walbro intank fuel pump

Custom Made intake plenum ( but not really necessary ) but makes ccoler piping shorter.

Custom Hyperflow intercooler 600x330x105.

80mm throttle body

Eboost boost controller.

You can run different ecu and intercooler etc but you can get a general idea of supporting mods needed.

This setup shown has standard internals and makes 285 rw kw on 20psi. thats when you valve train packs it up and aftermarket cams and springs are needed. car runs 11.75@124mph and is very streetable.

So you are on the right track but need to do it all properly to achieve the best results.

its a 97 m spec strait off the ship from jap, ive put a 3" zorst (from cat back i think), boost control, trust BOV, HKS air pod.. at the moment all i want is more power and boost, in future ill go manifold, external wastegate, injectors, fuel pump, but right now all i want is to put my turbo on with a good computer to run it. and ill put a front mount on aswell. i want a hand controller aswell.. do u recon apexi power fc will do the trick and back up later down the track when i put the other mods on ?
Edited by BezerkR32

Are you sure that you can fit this turbo without the manifold and gate? I think you may be better off getting ECU and fuel system sorted out before you fit the turbo, also find out a bit more about whats invoved in fitting it. If it has a ar 0.7 front cover it will take some swearing to low mount it on a standard manifold. Most likely will need a highmount manifold. Is the turbo internally gated? Ill add some pics of a 35/40 setup so you get an idea of whats involved for its installation.

This R33 runs a GT35/40 with ar.82 exhaust housing on XTR highmount manifold. Custom dump pipe.

Turbosmart 35mm wastegate.

Microtech LTx12s ECU

580cc Rochester injectors

Walbro intank fuel pump

Custom Made intake plenum ( but not really necessary ) but makes ccoler piping shorter.

Custom Hyperflow intercooler 600x330x105.

80mm throttle body

Eboost boost controller.

You can run different ecu and intercooler etc but you can get a general idea of supporting mods needed.

its a 97 m spec strait off the ship from jap, ive put a 3" zorst (from cat back i think), boost control, trust BOV, HKS air pod.. at the moment all i want is more power and boost, in future ill go manifold, external wastegate, injectors, fuel pump, but right now all i want is to put my turbo on with a good computer to run it. and ill put a front mount on aswell. i want a hand controller aswell.. do u recon apexi power fc will do the trick and back up later down the track when i put the other mods on ?

post-20078-1149807732.jpg

post-20078-1149807850.jpg

post-20078-1149807960.jpg

post-20078-1149808070.jpg

Yes this is what i've explained to Dane. He wont be able to effectively use the turbo with out supporting mods however once there in it will be an animal.

Did you also explain to Dane then, that to use a 700hp turbo you effectively have to spend over $10,000 to create this "animal"?

And then there is the risk of the motor letting go aswell making this "animal" power

:(

Anyway, bigg_d - whoever reccomended you a 700hp turbo for an essentially stock car is leading you up the creek mate.

I have 2 questions.

1) What is your power goal

2) What is the use of the car?

i bort it from a wholesaler for $2100

Im afraid @ over 2k it wasnt a wholesale price at all.

GT series turbos can be had fro around $1800, thats what i paid for my GT30 almost 18months ago

i agree, the turbo wasnt cheap, but garret prices have gone up again, maybe better off selling it and getting yours highflowed, will suit your application better with alot less supporting mods and alot cheaper, otherwise mods are as listed above.

Did you also explain to Dane then, that to use a 700hp turbo you effectively have to spend over $10,000 to create this "animal"?

And then there is the risk of the motor letting go aswell making this "animal" power

:(

Anyway, bigg_d - whoever reccomended you a 700hp turbo for an essentially stock car is leading you up the creek mate.

I have 2 questions.

1) What is your power goal

2) What is the use of the car?

Im afraid @ over 2k it wasnt a wholesale price at all.

GT series turbos can be had fro around $1800, thats what i paid for my GT30 almost 18months ago

Edited by BezerkR32

the use of the car is just a daily driver. i have no intensions at all of reaching the turbo's full potential of 700hp, all i want is a fast street car that can be driven daily. im not going to go in dyno comps or 1/4 mile times i just want a car that isnt too laggy and would be faster than most other cars around. i dont want to be a hero and have the quickest car in town, just one that can shut down the majority of cars that i come up against.. i wonder if i'd be better off selling the turbo back to the people i bought it off and buy a different one. is there any other alternative? should i put the ECU in, injectors and fuel pump before i worry about upgrading the turbo. the turbo i have now has an internal wastegate, but ive been thinking about top mounting it with an external wastegate.. keep throwing idea's at me guys, thanks for your help!!

In general terms, the bigger the HP rating of the turbo, the bigger the lag.

For example. My 460hp turbo with stock cams hits full boost (16psi limited by stock injectors) in most gears (not 1st) at 3500rpm. Peak power is 242rwkw.

For street use, I wouldn't want to go any laggier than this. Ultimate street response and power is usually found with the HKS GT-RS. I think it's rated ar around 420hp.

Your 700hp monster will be horrible on the street and useless without injectors, cams, fuel pump, ecu, internals, intercooler blah blah blah.

Mate. Get a smaller one for sure. See if they'll let you trade it down. Since you don't have the money yet and don't seem like you want a drag car, get something rated at 500hp or less.

the use of the car is just a daily driver. i have no intensions at all of reaching the turbo's full potential of 700hp, all i want is a fast street car that can be driven daily. im not going to go in dyno comps or 1/4 mile times i just want a car that isnt too laggy and would be faster than most other cars around.

Sell the turbo you have now then mate.

Purchase a GCG hi-flow turbo, bolt it on with a PowerFC, injectors and a Z32 AFM

Car will pump out around 240rwkw and will be an absolute street weapon.

IMO 250rwkw is perfect if you want a fast streeter on a budget.

250rwkw also gives you a good choice of other turbos (in the 450hp rating region), if you dont want a GCG.

Also keeps the stock motor within limits

No big clutch needed

Gearbox/diffs stay in great condition etc.

Also traction really is a issue much over that power and then creates a slower streeter

Get your turbo highflowed, $1350 from Turbologic in Port Kembla NSW. Will improve midrange and top end out of sight.

Dont have to modify anything to fit it and it does away with the ceramic wheel. Simple and cost effective. Have fitted a dozen of them, Customers on this forum will tell you the same. GCG also do two highfows, one being bush bearing, the other BB. There is also another thread running about Sliding Performance, im not familiar with them but would be worth a read.

I'm looking for around 200kw, but don't want huge lag.

I thought the R34 might be better than the R33 turbos.

Edited by BezerkR32

sell your monstor turbo

buy this http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/26

than buy a 040 fuel pump

than buy a Z32 AFM

than buy a decent boost controller

you can easily get the gtrs tuned safely to around 250rwkw without to much to worry about and if you wish to push it further.. add a set of pon cams and up the boost

ive got stock injectors and fuel pump, atm im on 232rwkw with aftermarket turbo.. he would be able to get around 240-250rwkw before maxing out the fuel pump, injectors can go a bit more maybe 260rwkw..

You must have a VERY "happy power" giving dyno. :P

I was getting 89-91% duty cycle on the stock injectors when i had 184rwkw.

Dyno's are just a tunning tool, i have seen over 40rwkw differences from one dyno to another. It my not be the dyno that is inaccurate, as the tunner can do alot to make it read "happy" as well.

The stock injectors will be running max at 230-240rwkw....they cannot handle more than that.

As for the turbo...I resell the GT3582R for $1750.

For 10 grand plus ECU and intercooler.....so in oher words 12 grand I can do the same setup as I am doing now on DOU33's and running 14psi you will make 300rwkw. I cannot guarantee it's reliability at that but the 25's I have seen a few tuned to 450rwhp and have run that for longer than 12 months on stock bottom end. To make your car be able to handle the GT35R you really need to do everything from fuel system up to cams. Without these, you are wasting your time as you will max out at 210rwkw and run lean the whole way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...