Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just got my water pump and timming belt and fan belt replaced, and everything seems fine and much smoother then before, how ever when i slightly rev the car and let go of the thorttle, the car makes a weird flutter like sound. I do have a k&N Pod filter and its pretty loud, but this sound is nothing i've heard before. and the thing is i cant see how the sound would be linked with any of the repalcement parts. Its ahrd to tell if the sound comes from the Pod (cos its pretty distinctive) or the engine. If its the pod, im fine but if its from the engine i might be a bit worried. I wonder if anyone have a idea what it maybe? I appreciate that it is next to impossible to guess for you guys without actually hearing it.

cheers,

Din.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122264-weird-flutter-noise/
Share on other sites

Do you have an aftermarket blow off valve? If so, adjust the spring tention and make it a little more loose. Let us know if it still does it.

Na man the cars auto so i just got a stock B/V! cheers for the reply though. I should Prob also add that the car is:

1993 R33 GTS-T Auto.

Engine Mods: K&N air filter, Apexi N1 catback exhuast and Boosted to 10 PSI through a Turbo Smart Bleed valve.

Edited by dineth
  • 3 months later...

im pretty sure the engine wont idle with any vacumme hoses disconnected... it will stall... if all hoses are connected, try removing the BOV and make sure the spring isnt jammed or corroded...

good luck

Edited by QRI05E

If this happened straight after they worked on your car it will most likely be directly linked to the work they carried out. The chances of it being something unrelated are slim to none. Take it back to them and tell them to check it over.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...