Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's translation from Russian of the article originally written by A.V. Perunov from www.auto.vl.ru Original address of the Russian version is http://enc.auto.vl.ru/6421/

To replace old spare plugs on Neo series Engines (RB20DE or RB25DE or similar that were installed on R34 Skylines and some other vehicles (Stagea, Laurel) you will need: wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers plus a hex-nut wrench.

First of all, you should remove the plastic cover that carries Neo6 label and see the following:

25484.jpg

LARGER PICTURE IS HERE

Now, the part noted as "1" in the circle - is our aim - that cover hides coils and spark plugs.

Firstly remove nipple 1 by disconnecting clips on both sides of it with pliers.

Then disconnect nipples 2 and 3 at the sides indicated by arrows. Important note here - the engine should be cool as these nipples are part of cooling system and if you disconnect them on a warm engine, some amount of cooling fluid may spill. It's better to open the radiator cap before disconnecting the nipples too to alter the pressure.

Disconnect connectors marked 4 (you may want to remember them by colors, however, it's rather difficult to confuse them).

Disconnect clamp 5 and onscrew bolt 6 - now you can move airduct apart in the direction of green arrow.

Diconnect nipples 7 and 8 and two nipples marked 9 - remember that one of them that is closer to firewall has a clamp.

Disconnect two sockets marked 10. Thay are different colors.

Now, disconnect two more sockets marked 11 on the following two pictures (note that firewall is on the left side of those pictures:

25474.jpg25476.jpg

Be careful not to brake them - they should be disconnected in the directions marked by arrows. There is no need to remove the metal part that holds the sockeit in place - it will be later removed together with cover. The sign "!" indicates the place where the wire should be disconnected from the cover.

Unscrew 6 bolts holding the intake manifold in place (marked 12 on the first picture). Remove manifold carefully in order not to damage the gasket.

25478.jpg

Put the manifold to the left side. Now it's time to remove the cover. Here you will need a hex-wrench. After unscrewing all bolts holding the cover, move it towards the firewall a bit and then take out.

25488.jpg

After that, you should see something like this - we're almost there =)

25480.jpg

Unscrew bolts holding coils in their places, disconnect coils from the wire and - here we are - time to use the spark-plug wrench =)

After changing plugs check coils as described here http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43555 and assemble everything back.

The whole procedure takes about one hour and a half or so.

P.S. Me personally didn't do this yet, going to try on Sunday - perhaps after that there will be some minor changes from my own.

P.P.S. My technical English is not very good - if you have some corrections regarding the terms - please tell me.

P.P.P.S. Neither me nor original author bears any responsibility for any concequencies of following the proceduredescribed above. This is for informational purposes only. Whatever you do, do it at your own risk.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Was wondering why pics didn't looking anything like my engine bay! Title refers to N/A as opposed to 25GTT :D

There is a great tute around for changing coil packs on a GTT;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...tml&hl=coil

Pretty much exactly the same steps reqd for changing the plugs - bit of compressed air in a can was handy to blast away the dust/gunk/crap before putting new plugs in. Don't overtighten the plugs and it's pretty straightforward. I used copper plugs gapped to .8mm and solved all my missing when coming on boost issues.

One tip - which sounds a bit odd, but may help someone - before taking off the coil pack cover take off the oil cap. Otherwise it is super tight to get the cover out.

Hope this helps.

  • 1 year later...

An accurate guide to replacing R34 Skyline spark plugs.

Will take 1.5 - 2 hours.

No need to have a spare Intake Manifold Gasket - is metalized and sealer not used, so it comes away cleanly.

Overall level of job difficulty - low.

I found it easier to completely remove the Intake Manifold. Will need to remove the Strut Brace to achieve this.

_____________________________

Edited by Les00x
  • 4 months later...
nb: stock RB 25 DET NEO uses BCPR6ES - 11 (1.1mm gap)

I've got the same but have been recommended to gap them down to 0.8 mm on stock engine and boost (R34 GTT) as I still have the original coil packs that are getting a bit tired.

I've also been told not to bother with platinums (had NGK PFR6A-11's on the car previously) but just keep using copper ones correctly gapped.

More spark plug discussion here

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

Just to put it out there the spark plug gap for my nissan r34 rb25det neo says it should be 1.05 mm. This according to the service sticker on my airbox. =S

I haven't started yet, but i'am going to change my spark plugs soon and will inform you if mine are in fact 1.05mm.

  • 1 month later...

great post mate, wish i saw this before i was charged 450 for a set of 2nd hand coils and copper sparkies + labour :(

3 different mechanics in perth told me changing spark plugs on 34's was a big job so i let them do the work

  • 11 months later...
  • 4 years later...

Anyone know what plugs are recommended for a RB25DE NEO? just need basic ones I guess i've seen so many different responses to what one to use so i'm not sure anymore

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...