Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Either change tyre diameter or take the speedo out and change the calibration resistor in the back of the speedo.

HPI magazine had an article on it a couple of issues ago on their R33 GTS 4 door with RB26DETT project.

haha umine is the same deal as you but everytime i hit boost the 'hundred thousand' number move... hahah so basically i go thru about 200,000kms a week :)

really do need to get that replaced lol..

its good in a way having it 10km/h up from wat it really is.. cause i find myself not speednig at all cause it already loooks like i am haha

not true having a uncalibrated spedo is a fine aswell!

dont kno if u loose demrit ppoints tho.. doubt it

Yes but if you are 10kmh under the speedlimit. Good luck getting pulled over!

haha umine is the same deal as you but everytime i hit boost the 'hundred thousand' number move... hahah so basically i go thru about 200,000kms a week :D

really do need to get that replaced lol..

its good in a way having it 10km/h up from wat it really is.. cause i find myself not speednig at all cause it already loooks like i am haha

hahaha

i am pretty sure that jaycar makes an inline circuit kit to recalibrate your speedo. that's all the details i have though.

Yeah, they do - catch is you've gotta be handy with a soldering iron, it's a DIY thing.

  • 2 months later...

old thread, i know, but rather than risk a "use the search button" warning, i'll just add on here.

I had a GPS and a friend in my car (borrowed both, i have no friends).

He was watching the GPS screen for speed readout. Apparently, this unit updates 5 times per second, so i assume it's accurate.

At 60kph on speedo, the GPS stated 65kph.

At 110kph on speedo, the GPS stated 112kph.

This sounds backwards, does it not?

I have 18's on my car. And i assumed my speedo would be out a little.

But it looks to me as if the speedo/needle isnt really accurate, or the error/difference would have increased at higher speeds.

How have you guys found your R33 speedos to be?

I have 3 spedos in my car - stock gtr cluster (in a s1 gts), blitz r-vit (consult connector style display unit) and gps. They all fluctuate... i assume the consult readout is the most accurate but the gps in particular can read anywhere from 90 - 110kph when the cluster reads 97 and the consult readout is 100kph..

i think it depends on how good the signal is at the time... if i'm crusing at a constant speed (well constant according to my other 2 spedos lol) it still fluctuates maybe 5kph?? I have a navman icn-320 if that helps (basic model one)

hmmmm, so it may be the GPS that is out?

I thought those things were very accurate.

the most accurate way to measure your speedo differential is to actually do the math.

RPM through gears into the diff with the Tyre/Wheel radius.

the ADR's allow for a 10% error in the Speedometer accuracy - ADR18

although the police do not seem to recognise this - specifically in victoria (3km/h over can and will get you a ticket..)

I have a "Road Angle" which is a form of GPS unit that stores the location of all fixed speed cameras, red light cameras etc etc and it also provides accurate speed readouts.

I would suggest that the accuracy of your speedo all comes down to your tyre size. I run a R33 GTR V-Spec and a R33 GTS-T Series II and the speedo readings are the same in each car for the same tyre size.

Exact Speedo reading = overall diameter of 651 mm

Typical Sizes :

275/30ZR19

275/35ZR18

245/40ZR18

245/45ZR17

5% over registration = speedo 105 and actual 100 = overall diameter 643

Typical Sizes :

265/30ZR19

265/35ZR18

235/40ZR18

235/45ZR17

11% over registration = speedo 111 and actual 100 = overall diameter 633

Typical Sizes :

225/50ZR16

well this is mine

5% over registration = speedo 105 and actual 100 = overall diameter 643

Typical Sizes :

265/30ZR19

265/35ZR18

235/40ZR18

235/45ZR17

but the gps was stating 112 at speedo-110, 65 at speedo-60.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...