Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a weird looking BOV on my R33 GTS-T. It's got a Mitsubishi symbol on it, and it's model number is K5T09. I've attached a pic.

I'm just wondering if anyone knows anything about this type of BOV. Namely whether they are adjustable? I cant see any way to do it, but someone else may know something I dont?

I'm getting a huge amount of flutter, even when on relatively low boost (11-12psi). It seems that its only when I get full boost (15psi) and back off that I get a proper vent, and even then it flutters after some pressure is vented. It's venting back into the intake. Is this 'plumbed back?' If so, should I be getting extremely loud fluttering?

Excuse my ignorance, I dont know that much about the bastard things :D

Any help would be appreciated.

post-23673-1150717030.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122905-weird-mitsubishi-bov/
Share on other sites

Yeah mine is stock and has the Mitsubishi sign on it, don't worry your not special nor do you have a freak BOV.

Just a plain ol stocky

EDIT: Looks like there is a plate there also which is blocking off the air from "returning" so thats where your flutter is coming from, take that plat off the middle and re-attach it and you will find you have no flutter at all.

Edited by MADGT4

Interesting..I didnt think it could possibly be stock. A mitsu part on the top of a nissan engine!! :D

I know this stuff happens often, but it's fairly prominent aye! hehe

Thanks for your input guys.

Does yours flutter at all? how much boost are you guys running?

alot of car manufacturers use other manufacturers parts. on my mate's my01 rex, he has nissan window switches/relays.

its a usual thing.. i heard holden used a whole nissan engine :D

Hahahhahaaa Love it! =)

I found an interesting thread on SDU about modifying the factory BOV to stop boost leak: http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...=&postid=191358

I think I may have solved why my turbo wont flow any more than 15psi when its capable of 18-19!

if you have a FMIC and do that mod to your stock bov, it will flutter and not blow off as it should..

here is my response..

unbolt the bov from that adapter under it and bolt the bov directly on to the spot on your car.

There should also be a thin gasket between the bov and plate where you bolt it to the intercooler pipe (near the throttle body) on your car.

When you separate the bov from that adapter in that pic, take a look at the bottom of it.. there should be a small hole next to the big one.

Make sure it is “NOT” blocked.

Once you bolt it back on your car, connect the vacuum hose on top on that little nipple, connect the large hose to the front of the bov and tighten your clamps.

Should all be good now and no more flutter.

You’ll find your car will run smoother now too.

Ok, i've unbolted the BOV from the intake, and there is a thin gasket, plus a thicker metal plate that completely blocks the bottom of the BOV off from the intake! Is this normal?

BTW, that pic at the top isnt actually a pic of my BOV.. It's just one i found on the web. Mine doesnt actually have that thick adapter at the bottom, but it does have a thinner metal plate that blocks the bottom of the BOV as stated above...

if you have a FMIC and do that mod to your stock bov, it will flutter and not blow off as it should..

here is my response..

unbolt the bov from that adapter under it and bolt the bov directly on to the spot on your car.

There should also be a thin gasket between the bov and plate where you bolt it to the intercooler pipe (near the throttle body) on your car.

When you separate the bov from that adapter in that pic, take a look at the bottom of it.. there should be a small hole next to the big one.

Make sure it is “NOT” blocked.

Once you bolt it back on your car, connect the vacuum hose on top on that little nipple, connect the large hose to the front of the bov and tighten your clamps.

Should all be good now and no more flutter.

You’ll find your car will run smoother now too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...