Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wanted to say i went to a well known workshop the other day to get a new clutch fitted and they charged me $1000 in labour!! I supplied the clutch, it was a straight in and out job.. y on earth it took 11+ hours is beyond me? also i had to fork out for a new gear boot that was fine 2 days before hand as i had it off doing some work..

I wont flame here.. pm me if you want to know

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123522-my-new-clutch-install/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It's not hard at all.. especially if you have a hoist to give you plenty of room to maneuver, and all the other professional tools that a workshop should have. I'm a complete amateur and I could do it in around 5 at the most.

did mine in 3 plus machining flywheel too

I actually do them in 2 hrs if the other guy I work with machines the flywheel while I clean the box up.

GTS4 and Series 1 32 GTR's take an extra 10 minutes because of the extra shaft to remove.

Series 2 and up are a little more tricky because of the pull type setup they have but it isn't much more difficult if you've done it before.

I'd say the workshop that did it didn't know it was a pull type and had major issues removing the box. Still, they are wankers for chargin you for their incompetence. If you had a GTIR pulsar I'd say they did you a favour by only charging 11 but a 33 GTR should be no more than 4.

I did my first R33 gts clutch on the floor of my garage with one jack and low car stands - it took less time than that and we struggled with bugger-all tools and took hours to get the top bolt off.

I would've asked the workshop where their hidden cameras were....Thats a joke. Please post here which workshop it was.

NOTICE: You're not defaming them - simply quoting what they said the bill was.

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...