Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just had the 100,000km service which included having the trans fluid changed. Since then it seemed as if it was shifting slower and that sometimes the revs would flair between gears.

Then tonight under hard acceleration when changing from 2nd to 3dr it just let go, tacko hit 7,500 rpm and the power was not getting to the wheels.

Its fine changing between 1st and 2nd when I have the shift leaver held in 2nd and if I hold it to about 4,000rpm and then move it to drive with the throttle closed it changes into 3rd ok. The change into 4th seems ok as well.

The trans fluid smells like burnt rubber now.

I know MV in Adelaide are the experts on these but can anyone recommend someone good in Melbourne who can replace the bands and clutches with heavy duty items and fit a shift kit?

Edited by Burns
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123609-my-auto-is-stufed/
Share on other sites

Check and make sure there are no leaks of A/T fluid. Check oil level.

It willcost BIG BUCKS to fix. I just paid $4k on a Subaru. Do any of the Skyline boxes fit?

For about $12 get a bottle of Nulon for A/T. It may keep you going till you get it fixed.

oh the sliptronic auto... time for a manual conversion.

My auto did the same thing once, after a night of going crazy off the lights after i first got the car. Didnt want to play the game. i drove it home.... verge of tears... woke up the next morning and drove it to work - it was fine! tight as a drum. was like the damn thing just healed.

May have just been heat?

Is yours still playing up?

My auto has its good days and bad days.

Some days, it shifts soo quick i get a slight chirp on gear changes.

Some days, it shifts so slow on gear changes that I get have this thing where if i change from 2->d, the revs jump about 500rpm while keeping the same gear, then i hit the rev limiter while in D, then it changes.

On another note, its my 2->3 gear changes which are worst. Ive gotten about 1-1.5 full seconds of slip between changes....then the next morning its just been fine?

As above, check ATF

overheated fluid, incorrect fluid level (too much or too little) are 2 main things that will affect their performace. getting the fluid changed can sometimes cerate problems with the auto trans fluid filter being clogged, then the clean fluid loosens all these particles. take it to an auto trans specialist and get them to service it properly, not just replace fluid.

Nope it’s stuffed not just a bit of slippage or heat caused. The fluid level is spot on and I have a big trans cooler fitted. I took it for a little drive just before and it changes out of 2nd but not into 3rd. It just releases 2nd then free revs not changing into 3rd. When I slow down or change it back using the stick it goes back down into 2nd.

I have 1st, 2nd then neutral revv revv and go no where.

When I had it serviced they also fitted an adjustable cam gear, spit fire coils and gave it a tune so it’s putting out about as much as you can with a stock turbo.

I think the flex band or clutches between 2nd and 3rd have gone.

So am I the first to break a Stagea auto?

I will give Keas a call tomorrow and see what they think.

Edited by Burns
Nope it’s stuffed not just a bit of slippage or heat caused. The fluid level is spot on and I have a big trans cooler fitted. I took it for a little drive just before and it changes out of 2nd but not into 3rd. It just releases 2nd then free revs not changing into 3rd. When I slow down or change it back using the stick it goes back down into 2nd.

I have 1st, 2nd then neutral revv revv and go no where.

When I had it serviced they also fitted an adjustable cam gear, spit fire coils and gave it a tune so it’s putting out about as much as you can with a stock turbo.

I think the flex band or clutches between 2nd and 3rd have gone.

So am I the first to break a Stagea auto?

I will give Keas a call tomorrow and see what they think.

sounds like the bands need tightening, used to be the same on my old vl turbo auto, not fun when it slips like shit to the revlimiter everytime u put ya foot down or when it kicks down :P

I find that my auto changes are a bit sloppy when it is cold. Once I've been driving for a while, and the trans warms up, it seems to tighten up and changes become a bit sharper.

Sometimes it gets confused when I accelerate quickly out of an intersection and throttle off before it changes, it seems to hang for a bit and then change.

Auto's are all black magic, smoke and mirrors to me. At least I can visualise what is going on in a manual box when I change gear.

After I fitted my FMIC I found, what seemed to be, a loss of power which I thought was either lag from the new piping (yeah right) or that my boost control valve was playing up. After some inspection I found the the boost level was actually not changing when this was happening. This usually occured under semi-light throttle with about 0.2 bar boost.

Then I started noticing that it was taking a looooooooooonnnnnngggg time to change gears when I had the foot up it. On sunday I attempted to pull away from an intersection & found that I had barely any drive, I backed off the throttle & reapplied it to find it was there again. Today after giving it a squirt it SLAMMED into the next gear after holding between the gears. Not a whole lot of fun really. Still, it does give me more reason to do the manual conversion now :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...