Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thats good news about the gearbox droo, im hoping for at least 6 months out of it, driving only on weekends.

Sounds like you got you got away with your conversion pretty cheaply redline. Did you do some of the wrok your self to keep costs down? I think the gts4 is easier as well coz you can use the same sump and things like that?

My motor is finally in! all thats left now is wiring in the microtech then its off to the dyno next week! Im so excited i just did a little bit of wee

Cheers frost. nah didnt end up using the fuel reg yet. Gonna see how it goes on the dyno first with the gtr reg.

Thanks Mitchy, the colour of the motor against the yellow i wasnt actualy to keen on when i first saw it, its growig on me but.

The wiring is done nismonewf, the photo is a week old.

I was dreaming. Still no dyno. I cant push the guy though, if I was paying him by the hour the job woulda cost me twice as much. I just got the word he wants it out by friday so now i have a good chance of driving it for the weekend!

I gave Him my car aout 7 weeks ago. The deal was though, because i have a daily driver he would do the job cheaply if he could work on it in between jobs.

Dunno how long it would take if someone worked on flat out.

My car finnally hit the dyno today!

310rwhp. Thats a mild tune to run the motor in, but i think thats still going to feel pretty bloody impressive considering my only previous mod was a pod filter and a cat back exhaust.

It did go as high as 348rwhp on 15 psi but 310 will do for now.

Thanks for everyones advice and interest.

  • 3 weeks later...

i just had a friend of a friend tell me having a RB26 in a R32 GTS-t makes no difference and saying that his R33 GTS25 will still beat it, because of his engine and weight. how funny is that :/

Nice work dude! Has come along very well. How do you find driving it now compared to the previous setup? Suspension will be the key.

It will be interesting to see how long the 20 box lives..! Stash some cash for the expected :)

I have an R32 GTS-4 with a 26 shoved inbetween the strut towers also, flick it into rwd and all she wants to do is dance and shake her booty!! :huh:

b2dr1.jpg

Edited by Remix-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...