Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys just got my r32 last friday :)

89 r32 gtst, fairly stock only mods are k&n air filter and blitz 3 inch cat back

and a silly amount of gauges

apparently wen it hit 60.. on about 4,000 rpm in 3rd gear.. it started to shake and wouldnt go up..

until it shook for about 3 seconds then it continued :(

previous owner had a boost controller running which was taken out for rwc

wondering what could be the problem.

any help would be much appreciated

cheers :)

ryan :)

Edited by Marlboro Reds
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124067-problems-with-my-r32/
Share on other sites

With the rb30det on the rb20det std ecu I couldn't see a rich and retard until the friggin thing pinged..

It would ping, go slightly rich, drop 10degree's from ign. timing then recover, power would start to climb than BANG fuel cut. :)

Easiest way is to throw it on the dyno for a power run, give you an indication of afr's and start from there. Cheap as chips.

I lost count on the number of times I posted the same thing.

As Dave with the bad hair up there said, probably the coils and/or spark plugs.

It might be cheap to go on a dyno, but it’s even cheaper to check the coils and plugs.

You have yourself a 17 year old car basically.

It has an engine that has been heated and cooled almost every single day for 17 years.

The plastic and rubber bits in the engine bay are bound to be brittle.

So do this easy/cheap possible fix.

I personally think that everyone on SAU (who doesn’t have after market coil packs) should do this as a preventative measure.

Here..

Post number 5 in this thread..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=122908&hl=

I will do this on my next skyline the weekend I get it even if it doesn’t have any misfire/stutter/hesitation problems.

And when I do, I will take some damn photo’s on how to and post it here.

Yes well I guess I assume others will also check plugs and the usual bits before hitting the dyno.

I always do plugs, check coils, check for vacuum leaks, check all ic piping clamps (slowly they are being replaced with t-bolt), replace fuel filter. Common sense really.

Oh and if its being tuned ensure there's more than half a tank in it. :laugh:

bahahaha...

I am your elder mate..

in probably more ways than 1.

it's funny.

I joined here when I got my silver R32

then I sold it and bought a VR4, then a S14, then a Barina (hahaha.. yes after the 200 was pinched), then the R32 gts4 sedan, now no car at the moment and I'm still here..

LOL

back on topic though..

plugs and coils Mr Reds...

first of all thanks for replies guys :wub:

my mate took it for a drive today, change to the right tyre pressure,

chuck in the boost controller.. seems to run fine now

ill probably get it checked and and dynoed by mechanic to be safe

thanks alot of the help/replies guys.. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...