Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys just got my r32 last friday :)

89 r32 gtst, fairly stock only mods are k&n air filter and blitz 3 inch cat back

and a silly amount of gauges

apparently wen it hit 60.. on about 4,000 rpm in 3rd gear.. it started to shake and wouldnt go up..

until it shook for about 3 seconds then it continued :(

previous owner had a boost controller running which was taken out for rwc

wondering what could be the problem.

any help would be much appreciated

cheers :)

ryan :)

Edited by Marlboro Reds
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124067-problems-with-my-r32/
Share on other sites

With the rb30det on the rb20det std ecu I couldn't see a rich and retard until the friggin thing pinged..

It would ping, go slightly rich, drop 10degree's from ign. timing then recover, power would start to climb than BANG fuel cut. :)

Easiest way is to throw it on the dyno for a power run, give you an indication of afr's and start from there. Cheap as chips.

I lost count on the number of times I posted the same thing.

As Dave with the bad hair up there said, probably the coils and/or spark plugs.

It might be cheap to go on a dyno, but it’s even cheaper to check the coils and plugs.

You have yourself a 17 year old car basically.

It has an engine that has been heated and cooled almost every single day for 17 years.

The plastic and rubber bits in the engine bay are bound to be brittle.

So do this easy/cheap possible fix.

I personally think that everyone on SAU (who doesn’t have after market coil packs) should do this as a preventative measure.

Here..

Post number 5 in this thread..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=122908&hl=

I will do this on my next skyline the weekend I get it even if it doesn’t have any misfire/stutter/hesitation problems.

And when I do, I will take some damn photo’s on how to and post it here.

Yes well I guess I assume others will also check plugs and the usual bits before hitting the dyno.

I always do plugs, check coils, check for vacuum leaks, check all ic piping clamps (slowly they are being replaced with t-bolt), replace fuel filter. Common sense really.

Oh and if its being tuned ensure there's more than half a tank in it. :laugh:

bahahaha...

I am your elder mate..

in probably more ways than 1.

it's funny.

I joined here when I got my silver R32

then I sold it and bought a VR4, then a S14, then a Barina (hahaha.. yes after the 200 was pinched), then the R32 gts4 sedan, now no car at the moment and I'm still here..

LOL

back on topic though..

plugs and coils Mr Reds...

first of all thanks for replies guys :wub:

my mate took it for a drive today, change to the right tyre pressure,

chuck in the boost controller.. seems to run fine now

ill probably get it checked and and dynoed by mechanic to be safe

thanks alot of the help/replies guys.. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...