Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

My engine builder wants me to get my new engine (rb25/30) run in on the dyno and tuned as well...

where in south sydney is a reputable place where i can go?

Auto sports engineering quoted me approx $800...

are they any good?

anyone in sydneys south - where do you go?

thanks

Hi all,

My engine builder wants me to get my new engine (rb25/30) run in on the dyno and tuned as well...

where in south sydney is a reputable place where i can go?

Auto sports engineering quoted me approx $800...

are they any good?

anyone in sydneys south - where do you go?

thanks

dude, do a search in NSW section for tuners..

theres heaps of threads, it will be more informative to you than people repeating themselves

yeah, i searched and read the threads...

i especially liked the thread about the south coast tuners wanted and how he was told to goto canberra..

i know how to do a search, if i cant find the information i need i will ask the question

if you search you might get a thread from 200yrs ago saying that X tuner is good when latley he's been blowing motors (for example), what if someone has found someone new? i think its ok if a thread comes up every now and then unless we make a sticky about tuners.

Thanks duncan..

those are comments which are useful to myself and other members in the southern sydney area... none of this go and search crap

i was just trying to help, i even did the search for you. am i suppose to read your mind and know you already did a search?

no need to cry like a bitch.

Ken from Incar Motorsports Wetherill Park (that's south isn't it? or is that more west?) is pretty good. Don't know how busy he is at the moment though cause he just opened up a new car yard.

9609 1122 (speak to Ken, tell him you spoke to wil with the white skyline).

Good thing about Ken is he takes his time. I've never felt rushed. The only time I did was when I wanted him to hurry up so I could drive the f'ing thing. LOL

i personally wouldnt take it to greg to tune a fully rebuilt engine.

greg is a top bloke but his facilities are a bit outdated. [sorry greg]

if you want the best possible tune for your car, go see Jim @ CRD at silverwater.

the tune is the most important part of the running of the car, besides the engine itself. as NXTIME said, dont limit yourself. a good tune and a bad tune is the difference between a blown engine and a perfectly running one.

do yourslef a favour and go to CRD

ive got a tuner that is really really good with RB motors i use and highly reccomend jim ghelis 02 9557 4000 at TUNEHOUSE performance center in chalder st marrickville. really nice clean facility and highly skilled staff. i use these guys and my car comes out with more power evrytime i use them. if you go there tell them nick with the maroon 33 told you about the place.

greg must be half decent as he fairly blew past me on the straight at eastern creek in his white GTR the last time we were out there! and I think had fastest time of the day for that leg of the state supersprint champs.

greg must be half decent as he fairly blew past me on the straight at eastern creek in his white GTR the last time we were out there! and I think had fastest time of the day for that leg of the state supersprint champs.

i have my reasons why i would not get him to tune my car. mechanical work and installation all good but tuning id rather go elsewhere.

greg drives like a maniac and has great skill and has competed many times in such events, the r32 gtr was also very close to stock, so not much need to tune if any at all.

-mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...