Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just wondering which oil is better for my R32GTR. Motul 300v Chrono 10w40 or the 4100 turbolight. My cars only mods are exhaust and coilover suspension and will stay this way for a while and running stock boost. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

300V is great oil but probably overkill on a street car (others would beg to differ :dry:)

4100 is only a semi-synthetic, which means it's about 15% synthetic and 85% dino juice.

I would go for the Motul 8100 5W-40 myself, either that or the 300V and do an oil analysis at 5000km to find out what it's like. You would probably find the 300V will last for extended oil change intervals if you're not being hard on it (track work).

For what it's worth, I've read that the 4100 is better for the older motors. It was something about the detergents in the full synthetics cleaning too much of the gunk accumulated in the bores and suffering blow-by as a result.

Also:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=22458

:D

Considering you have a stock motor, you might aswell go between the two products. The 8100 would do a good job. 300V is overkill and the 4100 is nothing out of the ordinary.

cowie165, thats an old wives tale. Its like saying you should warm your car up for 10 minutes each morning.

i've been using the motul 4100 10w40 for a while, no complaints here. Though i'm thinking of moving to a higher weight 10w50 or something, so might give mobil1 a shot.

hard to compare 4100 to 300v chrono, because the 300v is more than double the price or something...

I found this link ...Although it dosent relate totaly to motul its very interesting the differences between the ratings ...

Maybe we all should be running Diesel Synthets :)

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...