Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok here is a pic of the front of my car, it looks really bad with 2 badges and i have no idea why they would be put on there in the first place

the car was imported from japan so im guess its another japenese way of logic or maybe my care was put together from spare parts, either way who really cares!

how the hell do i take the chrome one off the bonnet? can i do it myself? if not where should i take it and how much would it cost to get it taken off properly?

i dont want to phuck up the duco

i cant take the red one off the grill because if i do there will still be the "mark" where the badge should have been.

any help would be great for this very strange problem of mine

post-30005-1152602837.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125705-my-r33-s2-has-2-badges/
Share on other sites

ok here is a pic of the front of my car, it looks really bad with 2 badges and i have no idea why they would be put on there in the first place

the car was imported from japan so im guess its another japenese way of logic or maybe my care was put together from spare parts, either way who really cares!

how the hell do i take the chrome one off the bonnet? can i do it myself? if not where should i take it and how much would it cost to get it taken off properly?

i dont want to phuck up the duco

i cant take the red one off the grill because if i do there will still be the "mark" where the badge should have been.

any help would be great for this very strange problem of mine

Ur S2 has a wierd grill... check out mine...

post-23785-1152603539.jpg

Ur S2 has a wierd grill... check out mine...

i know mine is really strange its like a black mesh grill? i havent seen any others like it anywhere!

i actualy dont mind the look of it to be honest.

it would look alot better if there wernt 2 badges.

post-30005-1152604325.jpg

There are no holes...

Use a hair dryer... heat it up a little bit... and pry the thing off. It takes time.

Afterwards use a bit of methylated spirits on a rag to clean all the gooey gunk off the paint, then polish her up a little bit with some polish.

Easy as.

crw_0940.jpg

I have the same black grill on my White S2 33, I reckon it looks heaps better. Loose the chromie!!!!

wow thats a first or should i say second i agree with you it looks quite nice

as for it being a series 1 well i cant say i have seen it on a series 1 most s1 grills i have seen have either the lines/fin things or they have had the whole thing removed, the series 1 didnt have a chrome badge on the bonnet?

BINGO!!! s1 95 model http://www.sportsandprestigeimports.com/45492.jpg

There are no holes...

Use a hair dryer... heat it up a little bit... and pry the thing off. It takes time.

Afterwards use a bit of methylated spirits on a rag to clean all the gooey gunk off the paint, then polish her up a little bit with some polish.

Easy as.

crw_0940.jpg

What front bar is this? GTR?

I am looking to change the front on my s2 as it's got a couple of cracks, and i love the look of this one, but am unsure what it is.

What front bar is this? GTR?

I am looking to change the front on my s2 as it's got a couple of cracks, and i love the look of this one, but am unsure what it is.

Yes that's a GTR bar.

And yes series 2 came out with 2 grilles one colour coded low style grille (the common one) and one straight black with badge.

Yep, Factory Option for series 2's

The standard body colour grills have the emblem on the bonnet

The balck optional grills have no emblem on the bonnet.

Your car will have had the optional grill fitted at a later date hence the two emblems.

The Black grill is an aftermarket product sold in japan that can be bought for s1's or s2's. The chrome badge is the standard s2 badge which all s2's have from factory. So the chrome badge was never added to your car, the red one was.

I am fairly sure that all series 2's had the chrome bonnet S standard. The grille is an option, It should be available from Nissan, be expected to pay $500 plus for it new, could be closer to $1000 from memory actually. My mates S2 was badged by some maggots and they took the Red S off this grille and he couldn't replace it as the grille is technically one piece.

There is a very similar Series 1 grille but the lower corners are rounded which suits the Series 1 lights better.

The grille can be removed and the plastec part painted, as far as I know they are all grey, so they can be colour coded.

The Grille is metal that's been plastic dipped and on a lot of them that I have seen the plastic is flaking off. I have just used the angle grinder with a wire brush attached to remove the black plastic. I will now get it sand blasted and powdercoated which will stand up to stone chips etc much better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...