Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just had a thought,

GTR fenders, whatever bonnet. grill, bar and rims you wanted. Added cost of spraying and fitting = ~$7-8000. Maybe more, I'm no expert on costs.

Sell your GTSt + at least $8000 = GTR. Its win win, plus you get an RB26, 2 turbos, 4WD, 4WS, GTR seats and a GTR badge :(:P

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just had a thought,

GTR fenders, whatever bonnet. grill, bar and rims you wanted. Added cost of spraying and fitting = ~$7-8000. Maybe more, I'm no expert on costs.

Sell your GTSt + at least $8000 = GTR. Its win win, plus you get an RB26, 2 turbos, 4WD, 4WS, GTR seats and a GTR badge :(:P

One question champ.... Why? He's building a drag car - what you've suggested would make total and complete sense were it to be a road car but it isn't. GTR's are VERY heavy, harder and more expensive to make quick for drag racing and a waste of money for this application. Did I mention how heavy they are?

BezerkR32 already has the RB26 but it's not going on an RB26 block, doesn't wan't 4WD for the reasons stated above and 4WS? Not many corners on a drag strip :O

GTR badges are important though!

Adrian

little bit late know, guards werent as expensive as you think, and not really keen on two turbos, Gtr are the most fun on the street but its not really what i need for the track. besides, just stuck this in. also trying to keep car around 2500 pounds (1130kg) big ask in a gtr or 33 whale.

Just had a thought,

GTR fenders, whatever bonnet. grill, bar and rims you wanted. Added cost of spraying and fitting = ~$7-8000. Maybe more, I'm no expert on costs.

Sell your GTSt + at least $8000 = GTR. Its win win, plus you get an RB26, 2 turbos, 4WD, 4WS, GTR seats and a GTR badge :(:P

post-20078-1153277649.jpg

post-20078-1153277670.jpg

Edited by BezerkR32
Just had a thought,

GTR fenders, whatever bonnet. grill, bar and rims you wanted. Added cost of spraying and fitting = ~$7-8000. Maybe more, I'm no expert on costs.

Sell your GTSt + at least $8000 = GTR. Its win win, plus you get an RB26, 2 turbos, 4WD, 4WS, GTR seats and a GTR badge :(:O

Not everyone wants an overweight 1500+kg car, or a small 2.6lt motor :P

I'm the f**king juggernaut, bitch! :(

As djr says, why not buy aftermarket cosmetics? Carbon fibre is lighter and stronger than aluminium ya know.

Hey 28" rims, nice :P

I find aftermarket cosmetics do not offer the quality factory parts do, alos there is hardly a wide range of parts for r32s. Unless you want the some cheap fiberglass kit with a poor finish.

Also carbon fiber is dick all lighter and harldy legal anyways.

It's nicer to have Jedi powers.

Bye bye, Michael.

r u jedi or sith?

jedi use their powers for Good purposes, not evil ! :sorcerer:

Bezerkr,

go the GTR guards - get the rear end pumped out. fit big grippy tyres, run 9s

have fun doing so too.

btw: Dont test out that roll cage, ok? Might look silly on a 400m straight strecth of road, lol !

Sounds good, can you get me one for under $400?

How about the front bar from the gts4? I dont know if they all have one, mine does and it has a large front opening, looks good, is factory and not a gtr...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...