Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive seen this only a couple of times but its awsome and i want it, somebody would get out of their car and lock it but the car would still be on and it turns of later by itself, im guessing when it cools down or something.

WHAT IS IT?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126757-whats-that-thing-called/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you know what you are doing and you have a decent alarm system (ie:viper) you can set it up so that when you walk away and push the alarm it will lock the doors only then when the turbo timer turns off, the alarm will then imobilise the engine .

Not really worth it on turbo either unless your Jackie Stewart either.

Its that or a rotator splint you are talking about. Both are extreamly dangerous and can make your car randomly combust at any moment of time. But dont let that fool you, after 90seconds it turns its self off.

:wave:

dude... holy hell how did you get to the point of having interest in imports and buying a 34 four-door without stumbling into finding out what a turbo-timer is along the way??

hmm do you have PICS of your 34 four door...?

dude... holy hell how did you get to the point of having interest in imports and buying a 34 four-door without stumbling into finding out what a turbo-timer is along the way??

hmm do you have PICS of your 34 four door...?

Ahaha u mean pepole, i had some idea that it was a turbo timer, but since i never had a turbo car i never really needed to know what is its main purpose, i will upload photos of my car tomorrow if i remember to buy batteries for the camera, but ill try real hard. Im interested in a turbo timer beacause im looking at buying a 2 door gt-t 34. And Whats this i hear about spontainious combastion, i dont want something that will make my car blow up or do i lol. :devil:

And is it leagal to set it up to do this, so when i turn the car off, and press the alarm key the car will lock, but the engine will keep running until it cools for 90 sec's. And is this legal, and i dont want to hear, well i think, or my friend once had a friend who got done. I want a 100% straight answer weather i can have it done once i buy my turbo car, and is it better to have an automatic turbo timer to one thats not automatic.

And is it leagal to set it up to do this, so when i turn the car off, and press the alarm key the car will lock, but the engine will keep running until it cools for 90 sec's. And is this legal, and i dont want to hear, well i think, or my friend once had a friend who got done. I want a 100% straight answer weather i can have it done once i buy my turbo car, and is it better to have an automatic turbo timer to one thats not automatic.

having a turbo timer itself is not illegal.

the illegal part is leaving your car whilst it is still on.

and there is no such thing as an 'non automatic' turbo timer, that would be sitting in your car for 60 seconds, then turning it off yourself.

and dude spontaneous combustion? are... are you for real about this one?

Internal combustion - what happens inside engines and make tyres turn round and round.

spontaneous combustion - what happens when people suddenly burst into flames in their sleep. for no reason. spontaneously.

PS one of these things is true... one isnt...

as your initiation to getting a turbo car.... you must quess which one is true!!!!

*cue churchy organ and humming choir*

Damn that spontanious combustion...

I live in fear...

As for your TT (turbo timer) its not actually about cooling the motor. Its about flushing and flowing fresh oil through the turbo to prevent "Caking" which is when oil starts to boil and turns to a solid state. So a flush of fresh oil which is hot dont get me wrong, but not as hot as the oil in the turbo charger at the time of boost.

So in short its just flowing some oil and water through the turbo to not so much cool but to freshen its contents.

Oh come on guys, don't be asses :w00t: He has previously said that "I do have a problem with reading and tend to miss alot of stuff"

Thanks to our good friends at wikipedia, here is a fool-proof explanation for why you would need one:

A turbo timer is a device designed to keep an automotive engine running for a pre-specified period of time in order to automatically execute the cool-down period required to prevent premature turbo wear and failure. After a period of driving when a turbocharger has been working hard, it is important to let the engine run at idle speed for a period of time, allowing the compressor assembly to run down in speed and cool from the lower gas temperatures in both the exhaust and intake tracts. At the same time the lubricating oil from the engine is able to circulate properly so the turbine won't burn the lubricating oil that would otherwise be trapped within the charger with the turbine rotating at high speed.

As with most parts, they are not illegal to HAVE... they are just illegal to USE. And bear in mind that they in the case of theft, they do make it easier to find the ignition wires... or so i've been told :devil:

Anna :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...