Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I didn't use a jun collar.

I took my r32 gtr crank to an engineering workshop and got them to machine the nose down and heat shrink a 4140 moly sleeve onto it.

They then machined it to r33 gtr specs.

They charged me $169 all up for everything but prices elsewhere could vary.

They can get most of the measurements they need from the r32 crank before they machine it down.

You just need to tell them how long to machine the flats.

If you go for a jun collar they still have to machine the crank and heat shrink it on.

I didn't use a jun collar.

I took my r32 gtr crank to an engineering workshop and got them to machine the nose down and heat shrink a 4140 moly sleeve onto it.

They then machined it to r33 gtr specs.

They charged me $169 all up for everything but prices elsewhere could vary.

They can get most of the measurements they need from the r32 crank before they machine it down.

You just need to tell them how long to machine the flats.

got the collar with the pump...good price too...thanks CRD

so ill fit it...looks like the nose of the crank is machined and the collar is pressed on.

it comes with two grub screws so they will hold it in place.

I build my own engines.

thanks Nik (amaru)

I take it the grub screws are inserted 90deg from the drive faces (flats)?

The grub screws are just an extra precaution. You need to machine the crank to the right clearance (negative) for an interference fit.

Bob Lee at Action cranks has fitted squillions of them for a lot of engine builders.

when we do our we oil bath the collar also so its a little tighter on the tolerance (heat bath etc), but yeah as mentioned, machine the old drive off the crank, tolerance fit the new one, and drill grub screws on the flats of the drive ensuring they are bellow deck height, lock tite them in and your away.

when we do our we oil bath the collar also so its a little tighter on the tolerance (heat bath etc), but yeah as mentioned, machine the old drive off the crank, tolerance fit the new one, and drill grub screws on the flats of the drive ensuring they are bellow deck height, lock tite them in and your away.

Bingo, exactly what we did with our rb30det in the racecar. Except it was an rb30 crank obviously. Has worked with no dramas so far. I must say the drive section of the collar is massive in comparison to the std drive on the crank, well once again for rb30 crank lol. Bigger is better in these circumstances strangely enough.

It's a 2 thou interference fit. Then put the crank in the fridge and the collar in the oven and press it on. Temperatures normalise and it ain't going anywhere. Grub screws are just a precaution.

>_< cheers :wave:

Edited by Sydneykid
It's a 2 thou interference fit. Then put the crank in the fridge and the collar in the oven and press it on. Temperatures normalise and it ain't going anywhere. Grub screws are just a precaution.

>_< cheers :wave:

some say to put the screws in on the flats...and others say 90deg from the flat face. Will a rebalance be needed??

some say to put the screws in on the flats...and others say 90deg from the flat face. Will a rebalance be needed??

We put them on the flats, I am not sure that it matters. They are also loctited in of course.

The diameter and weight of the flange is not really enough to put the crank out of balance.

That said, I always check the balance of RB cranks every time I disassemble an engine. It’s cheap insurance.

>_< cheers :wave:

We put them on the flats, I am not sure that it matters. They are also loctited in of course.

The diameter and weight of the flange is not really enough to put the crank out of balance.

That said, I always check the balance of RB cranks every time I disassemble an engine. It’s cheap insurance.

:wave: cheers :wave:

Yeah...same...will balance after collar fitted

FOr the 30 mins it takes to check the balance we always do it!! I have never put the screws on the round side always on the flats, dont think it matters as mentioned there a precautionary measure.

We dont need a freezer in canberra just leave them outside in the morning in winter in canberra and bingo you have a crank thats -4 in temp!!!hahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...