Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

huddster - how much it cost mm you?

i got price quoted EMS 6x tomei rb24 pistons $1926

i was *pull collar of shirt*

now the position im in atm is which pistons to use... r33 crank and rods i can pickup anytime...

now its wether or not go genuine tomei pistons or go brand new aftermarket 4agze forgies?

turbo is in the process of being purchased also (waiting on seller to get back to me) TD06-20G high mount kit... currently has 12cm housing... untill the 24 is built (not till next year itll be ready im budgeting) id like to use an 8cm housing if roy/sk have one laying around? :)

i got price quoted EMS 6x tomei rb24 pistons $1926

That the reason for my suggestion, $400 for new 4AGZE pistons or in my case $120 for a set of used ones and $90 for a new set of rings.

For $1926 you could just about buy a set of forged pistons and rods for an RB30. Which will make a heap more power than an RB24 ever will.

Hence my suggestion, forget the RB24 and build an RB30 instead.

:) cheers :D

SK hush - you will not persuade me!

im doing it for the little man... the little man in japan which designed the rb20!

he started a revolution for us all! i am going to expand on his starting point!

that and a high rpm will be quite handy for the drift with the td0620g which should provide a nice torquey powerband in efficiency range of about 1.4bar all the way through :D

certainly the 8cm housing im after atm for my stock rb20 as a temp thing i would not use - more so reverting back to the 12cm housing coming with the kit for the 24 as the added capacity and low down torque will still retain a similar spool timeframe for coming on boost and also effectively maximise the efficiency of the high rpm rb24 :)

rb20 base FTW!

SK hush - you will not persuade me!

im doing it for the little man... the little man in japan which designed the rb20!

he started a revolution for us all! i am going to expand on his starting point!

that and a high rpm will be quite handy for the drift with the td0620g which should provide a nice torquey powerband in efficiency range of about 1.4bar all the way through :D

certainly the 8cm housing im after atm for my stock rb20 as a temp thing i would not use - more so reverting back to the 12cm housing coming with the kit for the 24 as the added capacity and low down torque will still retain a similar spool timeframe for coming on boost and also effectively maximise the efficiency of the high rpm rb24 :)

rb20 base FTW!

I am not trying to change your mind, just make sure you understand why certain parts are chosen when doing the RB24. Sure you can make more power by spending $2K on pistons, but it's not good value for money. Spend $400 on 4AGZE's and be happy with the result or spend $2K and keep in mind that you could have bought RB30 pistons AND rods for the same amount.

I do sugest you start watching the Japanese on line auctions, cheap RB20 stuff comes up occassionally.

:D cheers :D

PS; that same little man probably designed the RB30ET 3 years earlier.

Edited by Sydneykid

ouch!

always watching auctions... tomei built rb24 with rb26 rocker covers and cam cover went up about 3 months ago... 120,000yen only 8,000kms used... genuine tomei cams, pistons, rods, crank everything... i shouldve bought that but instead i bought another set of work vs-kf

madgt4 would remember this engine - me tearing my hair out in the final mins of the auction deciding which to take... wheels or engine! damn am i dumb!

rods are cost efficient to purchase from jp which i am doing however crank i will be purchasing locally as they arent that exxy here and can gurantee no transport damage or anything!

question is... who to build now... several suggestions so far

and need an 8cm td06-20g housing also!

Forgetting whether its an RB20, 25, 26 or 30...be realistic with what you want from your car. A std engine with the right bolt ons will make crazy power...you dont have to run out and buy rods, pistons, JUn Oil pumps etc etc.

I have been buying parts here and there when i have some spare cash. If the RB20 dies then i will build up this other engine...but right now i can sell the gear i have bought and not lose money...im hoping i never have to build this motor up as when you sit down and add up the bolts, gaskets, fluids etc etc it is damn expensive. Add you will need injectors and and gearbox and i cant brign myself to spend over 10k to go a little bit quicker.

A well sorted std RB20 will run well into the 12s...so how much are you willign to spend to go quicker???

as stated above roy not for speed... reliability, longetivity, torque, powerband and higher rpm ranges

car is for the track... not street registered! so once a fortnight itll be thrashed for a day!

either way any idea on td06 8cm housing?

Good on ya mate.. this has been interesting to watch how much money your coming up against..

i hope mine wont cost this much..

Ive been told to do the rb25 too.. and it just wont happen.. theres something not right about them

Rb20 powah FTW!

not that it really matters but isn't it if you use the rb25 crank and rods its classified as an rb23 and if you use the GTR rods and crank its an RB24?

I was in the same possy as you about a year ago debating whether to go the rb24 or the rb30, i ended up going the 30det and haven't looked back since but props to you for going the RB24 and with you being in S.A i look forward to seeing it out at the track!

Good Luck!

  • 1 month later...

ok im confused i thought an rb24 was built by putin 20 cons and crank in a 25 block with 25 pistons please correct me if im wrong decause i am considering the 24 rought

im sure there is more than 1 method but i would really like some help

the reason for my choise on rb24 is i want the extra tourque but as little cappasity as possible with rising fuel costs

the reason for my choise on rb24 is i want the extra tourque but as little cappasity as possible with rising fuel costs

Thats retarded, the extra flow of the 25 head would probably make up for the extra fuel consumption of the whopping .1L increase in capacity.

Also there are people on here with big power RB30DETs getting better economy then my stock RB20. If fuel economy is your concern theres a million other facts that contribute to it.

Edited by Rolls
  • 3 weeks later...

just a note with the use of the two different pistons......

if you use the Tomei Pistons....82mm ..it will get you in the 2350cc mark with the GTR Crank....but if u use the Toyota pistons with GTR crank .. it will get you a figure around... 2260cc or there abouts.

there not quite the same

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...