Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They didn't seem to keep this car long, Seems a little bit dear compared to others on the net, but then again they don't look anywhere near as sexy as this one - nor are they as modified :(

On Car Sales

They had it for well over a year!!!

Id buy it!

Makes me regret my car now!

if you add up what has been spent it doesn't seem to overpriced to me.

for example:

9k = car

5k=bodywork

2.5k=wheels/tyres

say...8k=engine (labor+parts)

2k=susp

2k=turbo

1.5=powerfc

that's probably not everything but it's already totalled way more than 24k

i'm in no way affiliated to the owner and that's just a rough guesstimate, i don't think it's too overpriced at all.

obviously HPI would have recieved benefits for some of the things (labour/parts) however it seems to be a pretty solid car to buy into.

Edited by R32gts-t
if you add up what has been spent it doesn't seem to overpriced to me.

for example:

9k = car

5k=bodywork

2.5k=wheels/tyres

say...8k=engine (labor+parts)

2k=susp

2k=turbo

1.5=powerfc

that's probably not everything but it's already totalled way more than 24k

i'm in no way affiliated to the owner and that's just a rough guesstimate, i don't think it's too overpriced at all.

obviously HPI would have recieved benefits for some of the things (labour/parts) however it seems to be a pretty solid car to buy into.

Have you tried to sell an extensivly modified import in the last 12 months?

I refer to my mate having trouble selling a clean manual T67 equipped

Soarer for 12.5k, and this-

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=117850

If it was rego'd perhaps it would make a little more sense.. Its still running an RB20 box I believe. Also most of the parts they have fitted aren't the more expensive brands. Though that won't matter to some.

Edited by Drift_Limo
89-90 R32 GTRs with upgraded turbos and 400rwhp+ sell for this price though, and even cheaper....

Very unique ride however :action-smiley-069:

aka timebombs :wub:

I think everyone wants something for nothing these days, seems reasonably priced to me, that RB24 would have cost a bomb to build, mates rates or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...