Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

All cars are different - benm's gtst wasnt ALL driver ability - I didn't do much better than ben himself in that car (ben can you remember the numbers?).

low 13's for 200rwkw sounds about right to me for street tyres. I went 12.9 on regular streeters with 190kW and 12.6 on drag radials with no other changes. Suspension in the rear that is too soft is bad too. I have very stiff suspension set up for that type of racing yet it will still 1.66 60'.

benm - I'm DYEING to drive your car! lol

Adrian

Not forgetting that some R33's are getting to be 13 years old now, those numbers you see for the qtr mile quoting were often done when the cars were near brand new.

Having said that, I had:

R33 Gts-t, 93'.

Catback exhaust, apexi pod and lightened flywheel.

My first time at the drags ever, I had three runs and my best was a 14.4.

I was plenty stoked with that time, to be honest I really wanted to beat 14.5 so I was happy.

I'm sure with more practice the I could have run better, but yeah.

My 2c is that driver ability is going to give you your greatest time advantage at the track.

Edited by insu

Eh, boys, u been a great help. Its amazing how many diff opinions are out there.

Ive decided im gonna set boost to 9psi, dyno tune and see how close i get to running a flat 14 with full exhaust, FMIC and POD.

I'll post up the results for all to see

Hopefully I wont lean it out or blow the turbs, as has been suggested by some

I did 14.5 @ 95 with just a cat back - now I have FMIC, full exhaust and bleed valve at 10psi so hopefully I should see 13's!! :)

I was doing 1.9 60 footers too - so thats gotta count !! hahahaha

There isn't really much point "dyno tuning" with the stock ECU, as there is nothing to "tune".

Just get a boost gauge and a bleed valve, head to the track, run it on the stock boost to get a base time, then wind small amounts of boost in until you get to 9psi and see what difference it makes.

Ive decided im gonna set boost to 9psi, dyno tune and see how close i get to running a flat 14 with full exhaust, FMIC and POD.

the ageement is that low 14's / 14 flat is pretty much stock territory, if it's nicely tuned. If you have a full exhaust things go better and into 13's.

Just go drag racing anyway. It's easier to learn with a car that has a little less power, you will find wheelspin is enough of an obsticle even stock. The more practice you have the better you get anyway. Learning how to best get your car to do the 1/4 takes time, oh.. and breakages.

Edited by rev210
Good suspention and tyres will make a huge difference no good having power in you cant get it to the ground. gts25t runs 14.4 in factory form so get a good set of tyres, suspention exhaust and intake and a 14 flat may be possible

Okay - someone give me their STOCK R33 gtst and i'll put MY tyres on it and we'll see what's what.

I reckon 14.0's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...