Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

All cars are different - benm's gtst wasnt ALL driver ability - I didn't do much better than ben himself in that car (ben can you remember the numbers?).

low 13's for 200rwkw sounds about right to me for street tyres. I went 12.9 on regular streeters with 190kW and 12.6 on drag radials with no other changes. Suspension in the rear that is too soft is bad too. I have very stiff suspension set up for that type of racing yet it will still 1.66 60'.

benm - I'm DYEING to drive your car! lol

Adrian

Not forgetting that some R33's are getting to be 13 years old now, those numbers you see for the qtr mile quoting were often done when the cars were near brand new.

Having said that, I had:

R33 Gts-t, 93'.

Catback exhaust, apexi pod and lightened flywheel.

My first time at the drags ever, I had three runs and my best was a 14.4.

I was plenty stoked with that time, to be honest I really wanted to beat 14.5 so I was happy.

I'm sure with more practice the I could have run better, but yeah.

My 2c is that driver ability is going to give you your greatest time advantage at the track.

Edited by insu

Eh, boys, u been a great help. Its amazing how many diff opinions are out there.

Ive decided im gonna set boost to 9psi, dyno tune and see how close i get to running a flat 14 with full exhaust, FMIC and POD.

I'll post up the results for all to see

Hopefully I wont lean it out or blow the turbs, as has been suggested by some

I did 14.5 @ 95 with just a cat back - now I have FMIC, full exhaust and bleed valve at 10psi so hopefully I should see 13's!! :)

I was doing 1.9 60 footers too - so thats gotta count !! hahahaha

There isn't really much point "dyno tuning" with the stock ECU, as there is nothing to "tune".

Just get a boost gauge and a bleed valve, head to the track, run it on the stock boost to get a base time, then wind small amounts of boost in until you get to 9psi and see what difference it makes.

Ive decided im gonna set boost to 9psi, dyno tune and see how close i get to running a flat 14 with full exhaust, FMIC and POD.

the ageement is that low 14's / 14 flat is pretty much stock territory, if it's nicely tuned. If you have a full exhaust things go better and into 13's.

Just go drag racing anyway. It's easier to learn with a car that has a little less power, you will find wheelspin is enough of an obsticle even stock. The more practice you have the better you get anyway. Learning how to best get your car to do the 1/4 takes time, oh.. and breakages.

Edited by rev210
Good suspention and tyres will make a huge difference no good having power in you cant get it to the ground. gts25t runs 14.4 in factory form so get a good set of tyres, suspention exhaust and intake and a 14 flat may be possible

Okay - someone give me their STOCK R33 gtst and i'll put MY tyres on it and we'll see what's what.

I reckon 14.0's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...