Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs: 1993 Fd S6 Rx7 $8000 No Offers

popeye132
 Share

Recommended Posts

popeye132 Rising Star

popeye132

Posted
Posted (edited)

For sale: 1993 FD S6 RX7

Asking Price: $8000 no offers, serious enquires only please.

Killometer's: 97,000kms

Manual or Automatic transmission: Manual

Engine Type: 13B twin turbo

Modifications: ORC Slotted brakes, Blitz Turbo Timer, ORC clutch, Exhaust, Mazda speed steering wheel, Razo shift knob, etc

Complianced: No, imported under race rally rule.

Registration: NO, cannot be registered ever, please dont ask. Handles awesome, would make the perfect drifter!

Other Comment's about the vehicle:

Engine is excellent, has great solid power and compression or any other test is welcome.

Wheel spins when turbo kicks in all the way to 8000rmp with 255 tyres :rofl:

Will be sold with different set of 17in wheels or these works available for extra.

Contact detail's: please call me on 0412500318 or sms me if you cant get through and ill call you back.

Iam in Adelaide near henley beach area, can organise interstate transport via TNT if interested.

Priced for very quick sale at $8000 cash, if not sold here by next tuesday i will advertise on tradingpost.

post-14115-1153811783.jpg

post-14115-1153811828.jpg

Edited by popeye132
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127528-fs-1993-fd-s6-rx7-8000-no-offers/
Share on other sites
msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
Posted

Damn thats cheap for a car allready in the country.

Looks hot to, like the kit.

Wish i could add another car to the garage with out getting divorced.

fEkuaR Experienced

fEkuaR

Posted
Posted

I love the car mate just out of interest why dont the rules allow for these to be registered? Is it pollution... such a shame to see a beautiful car like good for nothing but thrashing around a race track :(

NGK Enthusiast

NGK

Posted
Posted

i brought a 94fd3s for $5500 a few years ago imported for race/rally.

i wrecked mine out and made well over $10,000

there are ways u can register it, but u need to know the loop holes and u also need to live in adelaide.

$8000 is still very cheap as this S6 looks to be a hamberger with the lot.

popeye132 Rising Star

popeye132

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i brought a 94fd3s for $5500 a few years ago imported for race/rally.

i wrecked mine out and made well over $10,000

there are ways u can register it, but u need to know the loop holes and u also need to live in adelaide.

$8000 is still very cheap as this S6 looks to be a hamberger with the lot.

Loop holes? if its a legal loop hole id like to know how;)

The only 94 models i saw for under $6000 landed are stock ones with engines in need of rebuild

VB- Veteran

VB-

Posted
Posted (edited)

im pretty sure you can get them registered legally, but its alot of f*cking around, and cost wise i dont know if it will be much cheaper than buying one and importing it under the normal rules.

Edited by VB-
W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

If the information i have is correct the reason you cant register it is because these cars were sold here from factory, unless it was some special version that is a lot different from what was sold here then it cant be registered, the only way to register it is to change the id to a later model fd.

But im guessing there is some way around it as a mate of mine has an imported S6 that some one was able to register at some time.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
couldn't u just transfer everything into a shell of another s6?

To do that you would have to use a australian delivered S6, there are not a whole heap of them getting around and no doubt the ones that are out there are well sort after for that exact reason, spend $5000 on a shell, $10,000 on a race only import, put in a bit of work and you have doubled your money.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

http://www.carpoint.com.au/car-review/ce6790.aspx

As stated in that article there were only a couple of hundred S6's imported, most about 10 or so years ago, racing and owners with too much ego and not enough talent has taken its toll.

7g is a bargain, engine, gearbox and diff would get you 5g or more of that back if you wrecked it, or keep the engine and gearbox for a project and you would pretty much make your money back on everything else, if you have time and space this is a great buy.

FNTSY Newbie

FNTSY

Posted
Posted

i have an aus spec series 6 that i have taken a small crash to the rear quarter. if i was to part it out the going rate on the shell and vin number would be alot more then $5,000

also rotory engines are hard to sell cause they go "pop" very easily

AS for this series 6 i suggest someone grab there cams licens buy this car and go nutz.....FD's are the bomb on the track

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
i have an aus spec series 6 that i have taken a small crash to the rear quarter. if i was to part it out the going rate on the shell and vin number would be alot more then $5,000

So your tellin me that once you have taken everything of value off the car and only had the shell with tags left on it, no diff, suspension, steering, hanging panels, glass or anything else you would want a lot more than 5g for it......... i hope you like holding onto things for a long time, or maybe your just saying this because you have made an offer.....

popeye132 if you havnt already put it on Ausrotary much better chance of selling than on a skyline forum.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...