Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just to question everyone with the same problem.

1.) do you have the correct heat range spark plugs?

For those guys with gt30’s and what not, have you tried a $25 set of NGK BCPR7ES-8 (the 7 is the colder heat range,, stock is BCPR6ES which is good enough for mild mods like anything using stock turbo) and the -8 is the 0.8mm gap.

Even try 0.7mm.. I’ve heard of some people going as little as 6.5mm at high power levels.

2.) Have you taped up the coil packs?

It’ll cost you nothing but 30 minutes of your time and you can be sure that the coil packs are not arcing out and making you lose spark.

Yes some of you have said you’ve replaced a couple of them but at idle they might read fine on a multi meter, but under load at hi revs and boost, it’s a different world for them.

Just tape them up to be sure.

You got nothing to lose.

3.) Those of you with AFM still in use… Clean them and resolder them

I keep repeating myself on this topic but it seems that they are logical things to check/do first.

Here is the thread in which I posted more details for something similar.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=122908&hl

Post 5

same prob here too.....popping and then a bang, it was at night and when it went bang i looked in2 the review mirror and saw like lil red dots get sprayed outa the exhaust (prolly red-hot metal)...

i got a stock ecu, cooler, pump, boost at 10psi, pod.....new plugs didnt make a difference

:P

Plugs in good condition?

Coils working?

side note 604 - 14psi/gt30/rb25 300rwkw = impossible

Ring 101 motorcafe and talk to Rob. He tuned one a couple of months back with the exact same and it made 302rwkw on 14psi.

I would start by doing what Nismoid said...check spark plugs. Then move on to check you fuel setup. Is your pump flowing enough or at all? You need to chekc basics before you start spending a whole day sorting out 'common faults' and hoping you nail it.

i am having the exact same problem...

only under WOT and at high rpm, it starts popping like im bouncing off a rev limiter, very rapidly, it almost sounds like popcorn popping. my sparkplugs are new/gapped...this is pissing me off ;)

I was having this exact problem a couple of months ago :happy: RB25 running 13 psi PFC blah blah blah

problem wasn't as bad as I turned the boost down to 10psi (eboost makes this so easy)

Put a new set of BCPR7ES-11 plugs in (gapped down to 0.8mm) started the car up and it was missing really bad (thought I had stuffed something up)... left it idle for 15 mins in the driveway, turned it off

later in the day when I started it up to go all was fine .. and has never had the problem again

Never understood why it ran so rough when I first started it up after doing the plugs, as before doing it was idling and running fine off boost.

I was having this exact problem a couple of months ago :O RB25 running 13 psi PFC blah blah blah

problem wasn't as bad as I turned the boost down to 10psi (eboost makes this so easy)

Put a new set of BCPR7ES-11 plugs in (gapped down to 0.8mm) started the car up and it was missing really bad (thought I had stuffed something up)... left it idle for 15 mins in the driveway, turned it off

later in the day when I started it up to go all was fine .. and has never had the problem again

Never understood why it ran so rough when I first started it up after doing the plugs, as before doing it was idling and running fine off boost.

I just installed a set of ngk BCPR6E-11 (Copper V-Power) in my rb20det....start it up and it misses BAD. lumpy idle that's shaking the whole car. god. how am i gonna fix this? :laugh:

i hope it'll sort itself out like yours did, but if it doesn't looks like im going to put BCPR5EIX-11's (iridium ix) back in, atleast those didn't miss till 5000+ rpm...

i taped up the coils while i was in there though, so hopefully that rules them out.

We have had some problems with the 1. Generation RB25 (with external coildrivers).

Seems like the spark dissappears over 14 psi boost, even lower on big turboed/hp engines.

Don`t know if it is the coildriver or coil that is the weak link, but most likely the coils.

HKS dli box did not help(as it does on the supra`s)

Generation 2 coils seems better, but probably not working with the external amps.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

Thank you VERY much for all the input.

Well a couple days ago we started to play around with the spark plugs / coils.

I replaced my HKS plugs with some NGK heat range 6 (yea i know, too cheap to want to foul expensive plugs right now). Siliconed and cleaned the coils.

I think it was cylinder 2 or 3, the coil looked like it was arcing outwards.

Took it for a spin, 1st gear and 2nd gear was OK. mid to high RPM in 3rd, the car still goes BANG BANG.

I'm thinking of picking up the Splitfire coilpacks, we'll see if that helps any.

  • 4 weeks later...

i got the exact same problems as u guys.

i have a stock rb26/T04R/HKS GT waste gate/splitfire coils/NGK plugs heat range 6/stock injectors/stock ecu un-tuned running 1bar.

did everything u guys suggested except changing the spark plugs. will change them l8er this week to heat range 8 with 0.07mm gap.

problem only occurs at WOT(wide open throttle)

but another ploblem is that iam scared shitless to even check if the problem is still there cause i don't want it to go kaboom. i know iam playing with fire but car will be tuned as soon as this problem is solved. just waiting to get power fc.

Edited by 2_eclipsed

changed my plugs as well to heat range 7 and still haveing the same problem, n e other suggestions. on a side note ill be changing the injectors to 555cc in the next couple of days as i sus my stock ones to be leaking.

ok i found this

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists...electronics.htm

the item on top being the BEE*R REV LIMITER

makes the car do exactly what you are all talking about

thought it might help solve your problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...