Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, here's the problem. The metal and plastic panels on my car seem to be magnetic. Other cars seem to be attracted to them, leaving nasty ass paint swaps and scoring. Over the past 2 months I have had 3 of 4 corners done no matter where/how I park. This has led me to believe that my hairy crotch has generated static electricity on the drivers seat which has in turn created a magnetic field around the car. Was thinking that maybe if I slide out of the passenger seat then maybe it will reverse the polarity of the field.

Any suggestions?

I guess another way would be to move out of this crappy town (coffs harbour) to somewhere that people have respect for other cars. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128000-magnetic-panels/
Share on other sites

You mentioned Coffs Harbour, if you do your research you will find that coffs is exactly opposite the burmuda triangle but instead of airplanes and such, it is intelligence that disappears plus the fact that is in NSW means theres not much of that stuff around anyway.

Try installing a flux capacitor and the dole office, they dont shit where they eat!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128000-magnetic-panels/#findComment-2367246
Share on other sites

Hahaha roflmao. Where the hell am I going to get plutonium from? Is there any way to generate 121 gigawatts to run the flux capacitor? Maybe I can create something to convert distilled Coffs wanker juice into electricity. Hmmmm... something to ponder. Or I could even put a sign on the car advertising a job. That should repel those bastards!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128000-magnetic-panels/#findComment-2367919
Share on other sites

Hahaha roflmao. Where the hell am I going to get plutonium from? Is there any way to generate 121 gigawatts to run the flux capacitor? Maybe I can create something to convert distilled Coffs wanker juice into electricity. Hmmmm... something to ponder. Or I could even put a sign on the car advertising a job. That should repel those bastards!!

I have a spare lightning rod if you need to make 121 gigawats..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128000-magnetic-panels/#findComment-2367932
Share on other sites

or you could rice it up with spinners and big stupid stickers so people will always be pointing and laughing at it bringing its presence to the attention of all those without brains that were previously attracted to it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128000-magnetic-panels/#findComment-2384396
Share on other sites

BRAINWAVE!!! I can just wrap the car in foam! Why didn't I think of that earlier?? Keep an eye out for a burgundy skyline with mums old sofa cushions strapped to it. Now thats a DIY job! Might spraypaint some skull and crossbones and maybe some fully sick flames in fully bright red on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128000-magnetic-panels/#findComment-2385497
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...