Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all i was just wanting to know about

1990 NISSAN SKYLINE GXE

im thinking about it for a first car money is very tight at the moment so needing something cheap and reliable, so i thought i would ask here if they are good, reliable, strong, cheap to fix, low on fuel, cheap rego, cheap insurance, all round good cars?

here is a few pics of the ones i have been looking at

post-30287-1154347369.jpg

post-30287-1154347388.jpg

post-30287-1154347432.jpg

post-30287-1154347455.jpg

post-30287-1154347493.jpg

post-30287-1154347509.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/
Share on other sites

There is no doubt, it is a good car. You need to do some budgeting though. When i got my first car, it was only a four cylinder. This saved me a lot on petrol. Not saying that the skyline chews through fuel, (nothing like a 5.7l V8) but I did feel the difference of six cylinders when I got my R33. I think its worth paying a little extra for, but the final decision is up to you. I'd say its a good first car. Good luck with the car hunt, let us know how you go. :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2371825
Share on other sites

Yes the R31 is a nice reliable first car, one of my mates got one about 6 years ago when we we're still in school - looks exactly the same as the second on in those pics. He still drives it today. I've been thinking of getting one myself lately and getting an LPG conversion so I can run it as a daily.

Just take your time and wait until you find the right one :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2371852
Share on other sites

better than what i had, but in terms of fuel costs, nothing beats my little "dune buggy" aka 1982 honda civic. If I recall correctly in 35 ltrs i had achieved around 500klms (which is around 7ltrs per 100). It would probably have been better when it was aroudn 10 years old, but hey cant complain.

The only down side apart from the space and all that is the power. The 1.3 took ages to get to 100km/h - so when I got the r33, it took me a few days to get used to the rapid response of the throttle....

If you want to get a good 80's skyline, make sure that the car has been regularly serviced - you dont want it eating up fuel - not now anyway....

Edited by emsta2003
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2386255
Share on other sites

r31 probably not a bad choice... Just being an old car get it checked out, find out what needs doing to it, and how much its going to cost before handing over any money. The fuel cost wont kill you, fixing stuff will.

A corolla wouldnt be bad either. Cant kill them. Same thing tho hey. Old car need to know what needs doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2386265
Share on other sites

Yeah great car, i previosly had a R31 silloutte burgandy over silver, got it off parents who owned it since new, had 500,000 k's on clock and still was running awsome, not a problem exept power steering pump gave up, had some mods, extractors, 2.5 inch custom exhaust twin pipes and power and torque chips in ecu, got bout 400k's a tank, you cant go wrong with the r31 i think, they can take a beating, we looked after that car well it looked after us great choice and you will be very happy with it and if need parts the gxe and all that are good with finding parts unlike the silloutte and gts. But you got a great car there mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2393387
Share on other sites

I had an r31 GXE when I was about 20 for my second car.. did me well..

back then they were in the daggy basket that nobody cared about. Now it seems they're a popular first car.

I had a VL commodore, dont buy one of those. They share the same engine and trans as the R31. Awesomely reliable! Although the commodore rusted out and had a terrible interior. Things to check are power steering racks ( i think , make sure no leaks) and if its an auto, check the overdrive works and engauges gears correctly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128331-first-car/#findComment-2399910
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...