Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I just got my car resprayed about a month ago.

I was told not to polish or wax it yet.

Is this right?

All I have been doing is washing the car once a week since I hate dirt getting stuck on the car.

I'd agree with that.

Wash it to keep it clean, wax it in a month or too for protection and it shouldnt need a real polish (ie cutting compounds)

My car was painted close to 3 years ago, and to this day it hasnt needed a polish, it is just washed and waxed reguarly. (has had a few bits touched with the clay)

Yep, don't polish or wax a new paint job for at least a month. The paint needs time to cure - basically the solvents used to make the paint a liquid need to evaporate out and if you wax it you put a barrier on the paint that stops that process.

On a new paint job either just wax, or use a pure polish (for example Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze) to bring out the depth of the paint more. Don't use a polish that cuts the paint :D

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
[man it probly needs a cut n polish not just a wax... wax is to protect the paint but if your just waxing crap it aint gona do nufn... well thats what i know....... use to do detailing on prestige cars. good luck.

You do not have to cut and polish your car to achieve a shine like this providing your paint work is in great condition.

Wax is what creates the dept and shine. Its not hard to achieve this finish jst time and patience.

  • 2 weeks later...

at the moment my rear bar is a white gelcoat fibreglass, and im guessing it might be harder to clean the black stains of it from my exhaust (when it starts building up)

can anyone recommend a good cleaning item to clean the black stains of the white gelcoat? i guess when i get it painted they might need to sand it back a bit :O

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey All, So after using a lot of different types of Wash/polish/waxes I thought I might give the Autoglym stuff a go. I just first of all like to say that im not really here to say that one brand is better then another, I use all different types, and I thought id post this up as a guide.

First of all I washed my car using Autoglym Shampoo at the car wash and then dried the car.

The 2nd step was to go around the car looking for minor scratches and imperfections in the paint and tabbing it with Meguires scratch X. letting it dry and then buff it by hand. This also helped get rid of some swirl marks.

The 3rd step I missed out on as the closest auto store to me had run out of the meguires clay and lube combo, and while I really wanted to do this, I had to skip it until next time as i couldnt be assed trying to track one down.

The 4th step was to use the Autoglym Deep Shine Polish (Its meant to be better for darker cars then their normal resin polish) pretty much lightly coverd the car with this stuff using a micro fiber cloth (one panel at a time) and then buffed it back by hand. (yes my arm is killing me)

I was pretty impressed after buffing back the whole car, the panels immideitly seemed more reflective and the little scratches and so on were either gone or becme less visible

The 5th step was to put on the Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection (wax). This was a like a clear liquid that your meant to just dab onto a clean cloth and then dab onto the paint without rubbing it in. This liquid started to dry into like a thin film after a few mintues and according to the directions I had to let it dry for around 30-60 mins. I then buffed it all back by hand once again. Once I had buffed it back and all the wax/smudges was removed. I got a new cloth and polished each panel again with more force. This really brought out the Paint.

Verdict: Keeping in mind that my car is a 93 model R33 (so the paint is over 13 years old), I thought that the paint came out really well. The Polish and wax from autoglym was great I found and the best thing about it was that it didn’t leave hardly any white powder which is a pain in the ass when u have a black car cos it always gets in between the paneling. Price wise, its not too bad, $35 something for the polish and $25 something for the gloss protection. The Autoglym car shampoo wasn’t anything special and it didn’t foam as much as say the meguires stuff, however it did clean really well.

All feedback welcome.

Cheers,

Din.

Edited by dineth

Pics:

1. at the wash, (before)

2. after washing

3. with the polish on and then buffed

4. And another

5. With the Extra Gloss protection (wax) on and then buffed back

6. outside after final buff

7. After photo

8. Products used (forgot to put in the scratch x)

post-2347-1165208480.jpg

post-2347-1165208496.jpg

post-2347-1165208510.jpg

post-2347-1165208529.jpg

post-2347-1165208547.jpg

post-2347-1165208563.jpg

post-2347-1165208578.jpg

post-2347-1165208593.jpg

Edited by dineth
  • 4 weeks later...

I have found that a product called Carlack 68 is a great base for polishing, applying fairly thick as its pretty piss easy to get off and then a nice coat of Meguiars Gold Class will bring the car up awesome.

Also, a product called Platinum Car Polish by Autoglym is also too.. just hard to get your hands on some unless you're in the detailing business. I use to be, hence where I got it from, but if you can get some.. its worth it ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

Just got my random orbitial polisher so this weekend its swirl kill'in time

Plan

Wash - Just some Meguires

Clay - clay magic and some wolfgang lube

Wash - Zymol Auto Bathe

Swirl removal - Pinnacle XMT 1.0 on a polishing pad

Polish - Pinnacle finishing polish on an ultra fine pad

Wax - Zymol Japon by hand...maybe two layers if i have time to let it sit.

  • 2 weeks later...

Swissol has a good rep as a high end brand but I find some of it a bit over priced. $50 for 250ml of car bath is Oprah money or is that Zymol money. The Samuari wax sounds interesting probably similar to the Zymol Japon but a bit cheaper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...