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I use Klasse All-In-One followed by Klasse Sealant Glaze. It's comparable to Zaino in durability.

If you want cheap, NuFinish is very effective also.

Use EagleOne All Wheel and Tire Cleaner (the best over-the -counter wheel cleaner) then follow with the wax.

________________________________________________________________________________

REGARDS..

JOHN

Edited by johnpeterson
  • 3 weeks later...
Not sure who recommended it to me, but Autoglym metal polish for removing the dark black stain on the rear of the car (from the exhaust fumes).

It works great, I also used it to remove some other black marks that other soaps simply won't remove, it removed them with ease.

A big thanks to the forum member who recommended it to me.

I just detailed with Final Inspection seal, I'll post some photo's up in the next week or two depending on how good it looks, also used there power wheel cleaner (amazing results on the rims) AND some Autoglym metal polish on the rims...

I just did my car with FI Seal to. I'm very happy with the result. It will be getting a second layer applied on Thursday then I will be using my wax on top of that to keep the shine going. I've got the power wheel cleaner as well and I'm very impressed. Spray on, Wash off and done. Absolutely brilliant. Also if your having trouble with the exhaust stains and stuff on your rear bar try the power wheel cleaner on it as well. Comes straight off. I have a white car as well so I know your pain lol.

I made a thread in this section with the pics after the detail so have a look.

Cheers

Colin

I'm no detailing expert so I'm expecting a barrage of tomatoes and/or insults after writing this...but I reckon there's alot of unnecessary use of detailing products here? I have a real good carnauba wax that only requires a wash before application...and that's it. That's all I do. It turns every panel into a glossy feeling mirror, lasts for months (my last application was 3 months ago and I wash my car weekly) and bird/bug stains still come off in a single swipe. Still beads the hell out of rain too. It does help that my paint is in fairly good condition so I havent needed to polish it at all...but all these sealants and multiple layers of waxes and multi-step and NXT wash blah blah...I'm just not seeing the point beyond wearing out your arms and your wallet!

1st lot of tomatoes on there way. :-)

No one is saying that a single layer of something is crap. If you had good paint and use a good product it very well might be great. To actually say though that there's no need for sealants etc is a bit naive.

To be honest i equate it to why use slicks on a race cars when a set of nangkangs will get you around the track? :P

2nd round of tomatoes lol.

All waxes only required a wash before application. But most of the time you are wasting your time just waxing over all the crap that is stuck to your clear coat. To get a decent finish. And I'm sure this is subjective but I define a decent finish as swirl marks/micro scratches, water marks etc removed. The paint should be smooth to touch and have a nice glossy look depending on the wax/sealer used.

The truth is most of the products and steps listed are way over the top for any normal person who just wants their car to be shiny. These are the kind of people that cause most of the damage to their paint through poor washing technique in which case no amount of polish or wax will give them the protection they need.

I would go the same way as Nismo comparing it to motorsport. Those seconds that a serious competitor shaves off through suspension tuning, decent tyres etc are meaningless to somebody who just wants to get out there and have some fun.

Blah since I live in a dusty area with a black car which sees a lot of highway kays, I'm forever washing it. I've noticed from using megs wax / autoglym deep shine polish that I can get away with doing several quick washes at the local car was before grime starts to just 'stick' onto the paintwork again. I'm also contemplating getting a clay bar to get the gritty shit out. The only thing I still have a problem with is rainspots mainly ;)

After my VN which I owned for 3 years and polished twice in that time and never properly waxed (and in the last 6 months had noticable paint fade on the bonnet and cracking / crows feet on the boot and roof on a resprayed car), I came to see the value in at least making an effort at protecting your car's paintwork.

can anyone recommend a product to remove the acid rain type of stains on the rear windshield and quarters .. ? I seem to remember there being a discussion about these and it being common for any fresh jap imports... but I can't quite remember the products that were recommended.

Give Ispropyl alcohol a go. If its light water spots then it should do the job.

If that doesnt work then this is what I use http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.p...s&prodId=c1

it has acidic cleaners in it and its an abrsive so it will get deep to reomve the water spots.

i used this by machine on a WRX which had water spots all over it as it spent most of its life in rural areas.

You can apply sealants on glass aswell to prevent water spots etching in.

Cheers

Dave

I've seen that Glass Plexin stuff and it works a treat, easier to clean and you can wax over it for pretty factor. My concern about it is though that it forms a layer on your paint that can crack and to repair it you just apply more... if it cracks though, being bonded to your paint, I would have thought the paint could crack with it.

ATM I use meguires clay + tech wax.... comes up purrty

  • 2 weeks later...

Did this test a while back with a few products to see how effective it is at "filling" in paint imperfections.

All products were applied by hand to give the majority of peple out there a better idea of what kind of results can be achieved without having to machine polish.

Products tested were:

1. Driven Automotive Polish (AIO)

2. Prima Amigo with Epic

3. Prima Banana Gloss

4. Glare Micro with Infinity

DSC04172.jpg

Driven Automotive Polish

This is an AIO polymer sealant which I mainly use as an LSP but wanted to see how it'd go at filling.

A thin layer was applied with a foam applicator pad and left for 15 minutes before buffing off.

DSC04165.jpg

Prima Amigo with Epic

I used these 2 products together mainly because Prima states that these 2 are designed for eachother.

The Amigo was worked onto the panel with a Grey LC foam hand pad until broken down then residue was buffed off.

I let it sit for 15 minutes before applying Epic.

Epic was also left for 15 minutes before the residue was buffed off.

DSC04166.jpg

Prima Banana Gloss

BG is a very runny product but you dont need to use much to get good coverage.

This was also applied with a foam applicator pad and left for 15 mintues before buffing off residue.

DSC04170.jpg

Glare Micro with Infinity

Glare Micro is a paint cleaner which has filling capabilities. This was applied with the white side of a LC 2in1 hand pad. It was worked the same way as the Amigo (until broken down) then residue was buffed off.

15 mintues later I applied the Infinity paint sealant over the top of it. Left for 15 minutes then buffed off. The Infinity didnt seem to spread as nicely as the other products when applied.

DSC04171.jpg

Glare also has other products such as Knockout and Spider which helps fill in heavier paint defects but you need to go through the whole process from Knockout to Micro to Spider. These all work in conjunction with eachother and I find it more effective when done by machine.

I only used Micro on this test to keep it on the same level as the other products.

Here is how I would rate the products.

Ease of application(by hand)

1. BG

2. Driven Auto polish

3. Amigo & Epic

4. Glare Micro & Infinity

Filling Capabilities

1. BG

2. Amigo & Epic

3. Glare Micro & Infinity

4. Driven Auto Polish

Finish & Feel

1. Amigo & Epic

2. Driven Auto Polish (very Slick)

3. BG

4. Glare Micro & Infinity

Durability(past experiences)

1. Driven Auto Polish

2. Glare Micro & Infinily

3. Amigo & Epic

4. BG

Thanks for reading

Dave

can anyone recommend a product to remove the acid rain type of stains on the rear windshield and quarters .. ? I seem to remember there being a discussion about these and it being common for any fresh jap imports... but I can't quite remember the products that were recommended.

Auto Glym - Glass Polish works a treat

or you could use wax and grease remover (or prepsol) with a razor blade that will clean the surface prior to polishing

  • 4 weeks later...

got some good results last week with using Megs Gel wash with a Eagle one pad, Autoglym Deep Shine Polish applied with microfibre pads, and then a wax with Megs Carnuba Wax and foam pads (red bottle). Seemed to get rid of the rain spots but swirled the paint a bit in places.

Definitely need a clay bar though!

Best polish i ever used was Fercela G3 it could get out any scratch in one small application

Megquires - Wet Look also works heap's well

Auto Glym - Super Resin Polish (the red and white bottle)

Omicron - Premium Wax

Farecla.... nasty stuff

Menzerna is where it's at for polishes

  • 3 weeks later...
hey guys

just looking at peoples opinions on polishs and wax, i currently use autoglym, but not really happy with the shine! im after i shine u can count how many teeth u got! what do u guys recommend? and something thats last im sicking polishing my car every second day

I personally stay away from waxes and polishes , i use a japanese product called climat it is used in japan to keep acid rain off cars as some cars over there can have paint run !!!!!!! Its a bit like rain x but for body paint , it lasts for 2 years for one application and is like a glass finish ! Product can be imported :P

stay away from waxes and polishes?? that's a fairly idiotic statement. One corrects paint defects, and the other protects the paint itself, yep... definitely something to stay away from.... :nyaanyaa:

If you have paint imperfections (which EVERYONE does, no matter how pedantic their washing procedure) how are you going to correct them if you "stay away from polishes"?? or do you just not care... if that's the case, then fair enough. But for everyone else who wants their paint looking good, we'll stick with our polishes thanks

nothing lasts for more than say 6months. Proper prep and proper application (and perhaps an extra layer or two) will see a good sealant last ~6months, maybe stretched a bit with very good washing technique and water control.

Car stealerships would love someone like you... walk-in, get a new car and be sold the "paint protection kit" that costs $1k and owes them about $100, and you walk away thinking "i don't have to touch my cars paint for 2 years, how awesome is that!"

:)

if it's too good to be true..............

  • 1 month later...

I just bought a gts/t series 2 and the paint was stuffed ( white colour ) it was full of scratches. I used used the meguires scratch and deep swirl remover followed by a meguires yellow wax. ( total time polishing was about 7 hours) after that if you look closely ( about 20 cm away u can still see scrathches but they no were near as bad. I than used turtle wax white polish on the bumpers and they came up better oh well you win some and u lose some. a mate told me that top coats on imported skylines are very easy to scratch.

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