Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i still had a bottle of meguiars gold class left (abour 30% left, trying to use it all up) i find that gold class is really good at bringing the shine back but doesn't last long. as soon as i finish the bottle going to go get some FI products, can't wait to try the FI stuff.

that looks great mate!

what products did you end up using?

Ill post up pics of my skyline in a few weeks time

Ordered a Bosch GEX150turbo + FI's CAP range of polishes

Already got seal and claybars from other details

Will post up the results of a 2 stage machine polish on my 34 :)

That looks great! Gloss Black cars are always the most rewarding to detail .. you get a mirror all around once you're done thumbsup.gif

Congratulations on your results :)

What did you end up doing for the headlights?

also just noticed you live in VIC .. why not drop by the FI Store - damians great and will help you out with what you need .. or maybe you can get him to do the paint correction!

You seem to know your detail stuff very well & you are in WA, do you know (or recommand) any detailing shops here in WA?

I used to do some 1/2 arsed attempt at detailing but now can't be bothered anymore & would rather just pay some shop to do the work instead... :P

Currently I just wash it from time to time with some standard carwash.

What did you end up doing for the headlights?

i polished it with FI cap just as the car but the clouds were back on next morning... i polished them again and them sealed it with FI seal.. so far looks ok but i will keep an eye on them....

issue with the dashboard is still the same tho... :(

Hey Mayuri ..

Umm to be honest perth is kind of lacking in detailing services :(

I'm not too sure about the mobile detailers but as for the actual detailing workshops etc ..

I work at one in osborne park and I'm rather dissapointed in the procedures we use to clean the car .. we also use cheap low quality goods which I can't imagine are too good for the cars paintwork ..

For 200 bucks a car you'd expect a real good detail but its far from it

Most detailers in perth are around that standard too I assume, we cater more for the dealerships to just have their car looking food for a short amount of time so that they can sell the car

There also aren't many who I can find that do machine paint correction

I wouldn't send my car to most of the detailers in Perth, I'd rather do it from home where I know i'm using good quality products and taking all care possible to minimise swirl marks and other damage ..

If you want .. check out the mobile detailers around town, or where abouts are you located?

I don't mind doing the detailing on your car if you want?

PM me if you want me to do the work :)

Rawzz With the headlights fogging up its probably condensation from the inside causing it .. on my car the rubber seal has come loose since the front bumper is sagging with age and yeah water comes in from inside and gets the inside all foggy

I'm not too sure how to go about fix it .. But with mine it goes on/off .. at the moment its perfectly clear! :D

With the dashboard perhaps try using some window cleaning chemical? Make sure to buff it off well though cos with some window chemicals if you dont buff it off well enough when it gets cold it'll fog up like mad ..

short answer, yes. You will get more gloss and clarity. CAP Medium can definitely be used as a one-stepper, but you'd be crazy not to do a pass of Ultra fine, the results are pretty ridiculous. Obviously,best to team with FI black pad too.

  • 2 weeks later...

hi guys unfortunatly i have 20 year old paint but still in brillliant condition still shiny and nearly no scratches. however im having a small problem where on the back of the car where the exhaust blows its smoke from being so rich is going brown. what would be the best polish to polish up the car with and remove this.

i used to be a detailer but can no longer get my hands on the products i used to use. what products can i get my hands on that are good for this

Joel are you part of headcase car club?

but anyway My favourite polish is the CAP range - I think CAP medium from Final Inspections been recommended as the best hand polish

If not P21S Paint Cleansing lotion is another good cutting compound that is good to use by hand

For off the shelf products i used autoglym paint renovator once, that worked magic to restore my cars paint initially, was a pain to get off though but if its just for a small area thatll work well

If you worked at a detailer the products you probably used were autosmart brand?

I work at WA pro car detailers at Osb park and every detailer and the other detailer across the street uses that stuff too hahah .. im not a fan though

Swissvax! I have Best of show, Glacier, Shield, Crystal Rock. I also love Naviwax and Bowdens Own Body Wax.

I see alot of people mentioning FI's shop and products.

Have a look at waxit.com.au Antonio is on this forum i see and is an absolute pleasure to talk to and get help from with great prices on products.

Regards,

Mitch

  • 2 weeks later...

Swissvax! I have Best of show, Glacier, Shield, Crystal Rock. I also love Naviwax and Bowdens Own Body Wax.

I see alot of people mentioning FI's shop and products.

Have a look at waxit.com.au Antonio is on this forum i see and is an absolute pleasure to talk to and get help from with great prices on products.

Regards,

Mitch

Mitch, your the guy telling us that 70% wax content is BS and I totally agree with you and when I saw you do detailing for living, I understand you get that part. However, now I read your the guy buying 1000$ wax with the ''highest content of wax'' in a pot.. it doesnt make sens to me haha.

Mitch, your the guy telling us that 70% wax content is BS and I totally agree with you and when I saw you do detailing for living, I understand you get that part. However, now I read your the guy buying 1000$ wax with the ''highest content of wax'' in a pot.. it doesnt make sens to me haha.

Incorrect, what i was stating is dont get caught up in the cheaper waxes stating 70-100% carnauba wax because you will find they will be wax content not volume. See below

200g tub of wax

"massive 90% carnauba wax content"

the wax content is only 25% of the 200g meaning your canuaba wax contect is 90% of 50g.

giving you an actual carnauba by volume content of 45g less or 22.5% by volume.

Also there are varying grades of carnauba waxes, generally waxes use grade 1 and 2. then they also come in yellow and white or ivory. These all make a difference in price, durability, and quality.

If you are speaking of Crystal Rock

Crystal Rock is 76% BY VOLUME pure grade 1 ivory carnauba wax.

means 76% of the wax by volume so 152g are grade 1 ivory carnauba wax.

Does this make more sense?

Incorrect, what i was stating is dont get caught up in the cheaper waxes stating 70-100% carnauba wax because you will find they will be wax content not volume. See below

200g tub of wax

"massive 90% carnauba wax content"

the wax content is only 25% of the 200g meaning your canuaba wax contect is 90% of 50g.

giving you an actual carnauba by volume content of 45g less or 22.5% by volume.

Also there are varying grades of carnauba waxes, generally waxes use grade 1 and 2. then they also come in yellow and white or ivory. These all make a difference in price, durability, and quality.

If you are speaking of Crystal Rock

Crystal Rock is 76% BY VOLUME pure grade 1 ivory carnauba wax.

means 76% of the wax by volume so 152g are grade 1 ivory carnauba wax.

Does this make more sense?

Sure is! I'm a detailer myself. Have over 10-15 differents waxes. I totally understand your point. your post are good. keep it up.

Sure is! I'm a detailer myself. Have over 10-15 differents waxes. I totally understand your point. your post are good. keep it up.

Thanks, glad people are enjoying my information and hope they find it helpful.

I check this section of the forum atleast twice a day and any where I think something needs correcting or someone needs help I will try and give my view. In saying that I;m not always right and Antonio from waxit.com.au knows his stuff inside out also as I'm sure you do.

Regards,

Mitch

hi guys unfortunatly i have 20 year old paint but still in brillliant condition still shiny and nearly no scratches. however im having a small problem where on the back of the car where the exhaust blows its smoke from being so rich is going brown. what would be the best polish to polish up the car with and remove this.

i used to be a detailer but can no longer get my hands on the products i used to use. what products can i get my hands on that are good for this

Hey Luvpsi, I have a white R33 paintwork in pretty damn good condition and I constantly get asked how come my car doesn't have the typical 'staining' above the exhaust. What I use is Meguires deep crystal paintcleaner. Give this method a try (if the rest of the paint work is in great condition).

- wash the car to remove contaminants

- (with a microfiber or DA buffer) Apply a small amount of Meguires deep crystal paint cleaner and rub (not harshly) but firmly in a circular motion.

- Run over the affected area twice if need be

- After you've cleaned it (providing the stains are removed) give the affected areas a polish with your preferred product and then follow with a wax to seal the polish.

My advice is, consistent washing (once a week) will always prevent it from accumulating quicker. If the cars polished and waxed properly, this will aid in the ease of cleaning off the stains.

Hope this helps :thumbsup: let me know how you go.

Hey Luvpsi, I have a white R33 paintwork in pretty damn good condition and I constantly get asked how come my car doesn't have the typical 'staining' above the exhaust. What I use is Meguires deep crystal paintcleaner. Give this method a try (if the rest of the paint work is in great condition).

- wash the car to remove contaminants

- (with a microfiber or DA buffer) Apply a small amount of Meguires deep crystal paint cleaner and rub (not harshly) but firmly in a circular motion.

- Run over the affected area twice if need be

- After you've cleaned it (providing the stains are removed) give the affected areas a polish with your preferred product and then follow with a wax to seal the polish.

My advice is, consistent washing (once a week) will always prevent it from accumulating quicker. If the cars polished and waxed properly, this will aid in the ease of cleaning off the stains.

Hope this helps :thumbsup: let me know how you go.

My advice would be as above IF you have a polisher wouldnt use a microfibre to do it.

If you dont have one get a clay bar and do you whole car at the same time itll make a BIG difference, Waxit Claybar Kit , This will last 2 or 3 cars easily.

This will and shoudl remove the exhaust stains, To help prevent further contamination I would use , Cquartz , the 10mL will cover the rear bar, and wheels easily which I would reccomend doing.

Seems like a bit of money but I GUARANTEE youll look back in 3-4 months and go DAMN! glad I did that.

Regards,

Mitch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...