Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here you go guys

Oh, and Nismo Boy, how about you look at how everyone else has provided their VIN and supply me with the correct format - I can't FAST the numbers you have provided. Engine numbers and model numbers are no good.

post-669-1250082022_thumb.jpg

post-669-1250082035_thumb.jpg

Hey guys - First post here! Sorry to not give a proper introduction but this request is very urgent :)

Looking at a 180SX at the moment - bit of an epic saga that started in June.

VIN: 6U9000RPS13324593

Engine Number: SR20848988A

Thanks a bunch in advance~ :mrt:

*Corrected VIN number

Edited by Rundle32
Here you go guys

Oh, and Nismo Boy, how about you look at how everyone else has provided their VIN and supply me with the correct format - I can't FAST the numbers you have provided. Engine numbers and model numbers are no good.

Why i posted the Aussie VIN is past my own common sense, sorry. Here is the correct one I hope.

HCR32-284478

More important than the photo would be looking at the factory build plate rather than the Australian compliance plate. Remember, the FAST system is a Nissan product and has absolutely nothing to do with the local bureaucracy. But in your case, you might want to look your car up on the RAWS site to see what that says too.

The VIN is 6T91MPAAAT1GVT001

I searched through one website and it said it was a blue 33. Which it is. But then it asked to pay so i said pffftttt. Tried searching through other sites and it says that it can't find it.

hey guys i got no idea what happens here but im buyin a r33 gtr not sure if its a vspec could sum1 please help and just anyother general info would be awesome.

BCNR33022988

GGPRQFR33ZDA A AA

the second one is the body num dont know if thats needed, thought id put it neways.

cheers.

The first one is the body number, and the second is the model code. That is the EXACT information that we need in order to look up the car. Others take note!

:D

(But I'm not on a PC with FAST right now, so I can't actually look it up - I'll try to do it later on tonight)

:thumbsup:

you're welcome - but I have no idea how to tell if it is a VSpec or has options - most of the program is in Japanese. Someone else might be able to tell if it is a VSpec from the screenie I posted though?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...