Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I'm purchasing a V35 Series 2 350GT that the dealer has said an 01/2006 model.

The complete VIN provided was:

6U9000CPV35550111

I downloaded Nissan FAST and went through installing it, but it doesn't recognise the VIN at all. Must be an old version not sure.

Would be great if someone could FAST that VIN for me!

Anyone know where I can get the last most recent copy of FAST for 'evaluation' purposes /offsite backup? :)

Hey guys

I'm purchasing a V35 Series 2 350GT that the dealer has said an 01/2006 model.

The complete VIN provided was:

6U9000CPV35550111

I downloaded Nissan FAST and went through installing it, but it doesn't recognise the VIN at all. Must be an old version not sure.

Would be great if someone could FAST that VIN for me!

Anyone know where I can get the last most recent copy of FAST for 'evaluation' purposes /offsite backup? :)

My FAST covers that month/year and up of V35's... It might only cover the Japanese models, and not a locally delivered one.

could someone tell me if my r33 has abs

ECR33112916

You'll need to find the options for the Model (top right box) to find out what your options are.

If you have ABS, it should be pretty obvious under the bonnet, but if you're checking for another reason you'll need to work out the above. =-]

post-3573-0-90662300-1317943913_thumb.png

You'll need to find the options for the Model (top right box) to find out what your options are.

If you have ABS, it should be pretty obvious under the bonnet, but if you're checking for another reason you'll need to work out the above. =-]

post-3573-0-90662300-1317943913_thumb.png

Found the post by Strutto from 2004:

R33 Model Codes (14-18)

Erghh... So many options...

The only one I have semi worked out is the last digit (18) which will be A if you have an Active LSD, B if you have ABS, and C if you have an Active LSD and ABS... There are heaps more options for digit 18 though...

It appears digit 14 is mainly focused on the wheel and tyre sizes...

It appears digit 15 is mainly focused on the electronic options (eg, ASCD (cruise), GT spoiler, etc)

I am unsure what digit 16 is mainly focused on...

It appears digit 17 is mainly focused on the AV options (eg, CD, MD, Stacker, etc...)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...