Jump to content
SAU Community

Dump Pipe & Front Pipe

r32matt

By r32matt,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r32matt Collaborator

r32matt

Posted
Posted

Hi,

Im looking at buying a dump pipe and front pipe for my RB20DET. Im running a R34 turbo and was wondering which system would be best. I can either get the seperate dump and front pipe or the the dump pipe and front pipe in one. Buying them seperate is alot more expensive but I was wondering if it would be worth it? I was also wondering how much the boost will raise once i put the dump pipe on?

Thanks

Matt

post-28585-1154565056.jpg

post-28585-1154565069.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128668-dump-pipe-front-pipe/
Share on other sites
xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

Check out BATMBL on this forum. His stuff is good, with split dump/front pipes available. But i'm not sure how you will go with havig an R34 turbo on an RB20, you might have to make some modifications.

clakka Collaborator

clakka

Posted
Posted

Mate just go the front and dump pipe in one because you won't need a screamer pipe (the one sold seperate) unless you are shooting for/have crazy horsepower...plus they are illegal and you will cop a massive fine and a nice yellow canary for the screamer.

I am getting the 2 together and they say you can raise it by about 2-4 psi but I would still be cautious if you don't have a FMIC or anything else...

clakka Collaborator

clakka

Posted
Posted

Sorry mate, thought I could be wrong, but have been told by a mechanic that that was a screamer...might not go to that mechanic again then hey...

However, frost is right you would need to get a front pipe fabricated and would probable cost a fair bit

Bliksem Veteran

Bliksem

Posted
Posted

Screamer is when the wastegate gasses are dumped straight to the atmosphere (ie the wastegate pipe doesnt plumb back in)

I would buy one of BATMBL's split pipes. He has a group buy running at the moment so just get one of those. If the R34 turbo bolted up to the stock R32 dump, then I'd say BATMBL's dump/front pipe should work ok (check with him first)

Munna1 Proficient

Munna1

Posted
Posted
Hi,

Im looking at buying a dump pipe and front pipe for my RB20DET. Im running a R34 turbo and was wondering which system would be best. I can either get the seperate dump and front pipe or the the dump pipe and front pipe in one. Buying them seperate is alot more expensive but I was wondering if it would be worth it? I was also wondering how much the boost will raise once i put the dump pipe on?

Thanks

Matt

The first one is certainly your best choice out of the two displayed. The separation of the pipes in the second one is not long enough this will cause too much turbulence where the pipes meet. Split dumps are good but there needs to be at least 30cm of separation before the pipes join.

The BATMBL split dump/front pipe would be a better option than the two displayed.

Cheers

r32matt Collaborator

r32matt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys,

Yeah I will get the Dump pipe and Front pipe in 1. Hopefully I will get a 2psi boost or more. Will the standard CAT be a problem? I wanna get a hi-flow but cant afford it at the moment, any cheap way of making my standard one hi flow? Im running 10psi at the moment which is standard. Will the boost be stable when running at 12psi or more? or should i put on my boost controller? (Turbotech Manual Boost controller).

Im running:

FMIC

R34 Turbo

K&N Air Filter

3 and a half inch form cat back

Lighten Flywheel

Extreme Clutch

Thanks

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

lol... well you have a few defectable items there already, so in theory you could just completely remove all the honeycomb from the cat, but it's illegal and I wouldn't suggest it for an onroad car.

Better off saving for an xforce 3" large body cat. They're about $300 from JustJap, and have the cat sensor thread in them already.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
lol... well you have a few defectable items there already, so in theory you could just completely remove all the honeycomb from the cat, but it's illegal and I wouldn't suggest it for an onroad car.

Better off saving for an xforce 3" large body cat. They're about $300 from JustJap, and have the cat sensor thread in them already.

but the fine for a hollow cat is a few thousand dollars more than the fine for the rest of the defects. i got my x-force cat for $175 off ebay. and i agree with kennedy that a highflow cat will give a bigger power gain than a front/dump pipe if the stock cat is still there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Stringycheese
      Blue slip

      By Stringycheese · Posted

      Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • PranK
      Blue slip

      By PranK · Posted

      Should have asked what is the car?
    • PranK
      Blue slip

      By PranK · Posted

      I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
    • QB6SAGR
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Hey guys,  Way back when (about 15yrs plus), I picked up a beautiful set of Tein 'Super Racing Spec Circuit Master RE' coilovers from Russman. I have legit never fitted them to my car, as it was garaged indefinitely while i bought a house Yada Yada. They look brand new! Anyway its time to pick up where I left off, and have started doing some khanacross and am booked in for a hill climb next month. The car has some hard af Nismo shocks in ATM, which has me wanting to upgrade again, and now I am left wondering if it's worth having these teins rebuilt? I think they where an ok shock back then, but how do they compare to what's on the market now?  Shockworks/mca are 2800+, and I am sure they are great. But if I can have these rebuilt and be better than, say, a set of bc's for around the cost of bc's, I would be happy with the performance v cost trade off.  If they are considered outdated and rubbish these days, so be it, I'll put them on the shelf and be happy to look at the pretty green colour while I save for the SW/MCA option. Grateful for your thoughts on the matter, and suggestions on who could do the rebuild if it's a worthwhile pursuit.  cheers, Rowdy. 
×
×
  • Create New...