Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing/fitting Head Unit Into A R34

peteness

By peteness,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

peteness Apprentice

peteness

Posted
Posted

Hi all im about to buy a new headunit/mp3 to be fitted in my r34 but i notice how my dash isnt line up straight as how normal headunits are?

i cant really expalin it so heres a pic (look at the left side of the tape plater is straight while the right side is slanted)

a134b53a.jpg

im just wondering will any headunit fit on nicely or will it have a gap on the right side ??

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

I recken with the aftermarket HU surround plate, you could fibreglass it to the right size? Might want to get a pro to do it for you... i'm not sure how much it would cost, but it's not a huge piece of work.

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

acutally a different panel will fix that. see if you can find another R34 with the 'normal' radio in it and grab the VIN. run dow to nissan and get teh right part.

never seen that unit - what version 34? (chassis code pls.)

peteness Apprentice

peteness

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeh my car is a bit different, it has the DVD/TV/GPS system stuff *which doesnt work in aust WHAT THE POINT!* lol

comes wif a screen instead of the 3 gauges i iwll chekc up for u later to cold to go outside =P

bought it at a dealer thoguht the in das screen would work but they did wat they do best BULL ShT! abt fixing it

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted

Mines setup exactly the same way. Cassette underneath, climate control in the middle, and tv headunit up top.

line_interior_1.jpg

Unfortunately you're going to have to make your own bezel like I did. I'm still not happy with mine and going to redo it in carbon fibre.

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

The way that is set up is for the R34s that came out with the TV Screen instead of the Triple Gauge Cluster...

Howie; your car would have had the TV Screen on top - I'm assuming you have replaced it with the gauge pod (from the looks of it anyway)

Peteness; you can either remove the TV screen and put the triple gauges in like Howie; or you can rig the TV Screen up to another DVD player of some sort and watch stuff off it :)

You have PM.

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

^^ that is correct... this is because the centre console of the R34 flares outwards as you go up like this: \ /

The climate control would need to be wider to fit in the new position if you were to incorporate the double DIN space.

If anyone can get the fascia for the double DIN space; or the part number from Nissan that would be awesome; I will love you! Every time I've tried to get the part number; I've failed miserably~

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted
Howie; your car would have had the TV Screen on top - I'm assuming you have replaced it with the gauge pod (from the looks of it anyway)

The previous owner replaced it, i even found a boat load of diversity antenna gear still in the boot.

satanic, isn't the part no# in the japanese manual ? That thing has nearly everything in there lol.

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

This is the reason you shouldn't buy an R34 with navigation in it :(

You can get the replacement aircon control unit from Yahoo auctions and rip out the navigation system. You will also need the centre console front fascia also available on the auction site.

This is what it's supposed to look like:

photo10.jpg

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted
^^ that is correct... this is because the centre console of the R34 flares outwards as you go up like this: \ /

The climate control would need to be wider to fit in the new position if you were to incorporate the double DIN space.

If anyone can get the fascia for the double DIN space; or the part number from Nissan that would be awesome; I will love you! Every time I've tried to get the part number; I've failed miserably~

Well according to FAST its the part highlighted in red in this image.

If that's the right part then the part number is 68260-AA400. It's called a LID-CLUSTER...

post-4070-1155300519.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • V35_Paul
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By V35_Paul · Posted

      2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • CefiroA31
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By CefiroA31 · Posted

      Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...