Jump to content
SAU Community

This Is What Happens When People Dont Have A Clue...

mitchy_

By mitchy_,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

mitchy_ Grand Master

mitchy_

Posted
Posted

took my car to an undisclosed location last week to have a wheel-alignment done.

the back had a bit of toe in from the recently fitted hicas lock bar. front and rear alignment, easy job? yeah!

gave them the car at 8am, handed over my money, and picked it up at 5pm.

it seems to drive fine, ie the wheels were straight, it drove in a straight line, $55 well spent.

whilst driving to the city tonight, i noticed a slight clicking sound coming from the rear, sounded like a dodgy CV joint click. so i had a quick look under it, couldnt see much really, so i planned on getting it checked out on monday.

then when driving from the city to pick up a friend from freo, heading down the freeway, just as you pass the city, and hit the newly done zig-zag part, on the last zag left, the rear suddenly felt like i was drifting... at 80km/h.. down the freeway. NOT cool.

so i quickly found my way over to the right hand emergancy lane, got out of the car and sawmy rear right wheel had taken on a new position with about 10 degrees toe in.

after further inspection under the car, it would appear that the arm that joins the right rear hub to the hicas, had become detached from the lock bar, thus allowing the right wheel to flap around as it pleased.

the only thing stopping the wheel from flapping around violently was the rubber 'boot' that stops dust/dirt getting into the threaded joint.

at 80km/h on a sloping surface, whilst turning left, and accelerating out of the corner, you dont really want the wheel bearing alot of the cars weight to suddenly change its orientation.

i had the car towed home, no way was i driving that any further. (i couldnt even come up with a cool story, like i was doing this MASSIVE BURNOUT, and it must have come loose from the sheer power)

so at 8am on monday, the undisclosed location is going to receive a phone call from yours truly, and they will be explaining how/why this happened, rectifiying the problem, and i expect some form of compensation for the trouble, and the tow home.

</rant>

Sneeza Grand Master

Sneeza

Posted
Posted

Jeez, thats terrible! Lucky the roads weren't wet or you didn't have an accident and get hurt. Good luck with calling them, update us with what they say!

I am always paranoid after picking my car up from tyre places etc... there must be occasions when they forget to do up the nuts properly.

ossie_21 Grand Master

ossie_21

Posted
Posted

My brother (lives near Sydney) was driving across the Harbour Bridge one day when he heard a strange noise & the car was shaking. Pulled over straight away, and seen that 3 out of 4 of his locknuts on one of his front tyres were missing, and the 4th he could undo with his fingers, so the wheel wasn't very far off coming off his car completely. The tyres had only been replaced that day or the day before, they got a phone call too!!

mitchy_ Grand Master

mitchy_

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Like he said. I'd be chasing the installer of the lock bar.

i installed it myself, and i know it was tight because i borrowed a massive wrench to get it cranked up as tight as humanly possible.

mitchy_ Grand Master

mitchy_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

rang them first thing this morning (on my lunch break now)

spoke to the manager, they are going to re-attach the tie rod arm to the lock bar, align the wheels(front and rear), pay for the tow, and give me a voucher for a free wheel alignment.

he was quite apologetic about it, and finding out why that part of the tie rod arm was loosened, rather than the other end.

-1 for the event occuring in the first place, but +1 for their effort to rectify the problem.

i think its all sorted now...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...