Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my car dyno'ed today... its been a long time due, and with the issues i had at the recent G1 comp (ignition cutting out) i took with me spares of everything, AFM, CAS, Ignitor etc to swap it over.. but it turns out that the ECU is a bit on the dodgy side

I always thought i had a stock map on my ECU.. but turns out that its been remapped in Japan, whoever did it, certainly likes their taste for fuel, as throughout the whole midrange (4000 - 6000) rpm the fuel mixes were off the scale and mega rich (off the scale being lower then 10:1) Couldnt believe it and neither could jeff... so he went to work taking out all the fuel, adding some timing and so forth. Took a few runs and due to some weird as ECU related issues, we wasted a lot of time and chips and so we were cut short on the dyno time.

My main goal was to increase the midrange torque and so forth, i wasnt really fussed about the top end power as much, as i was happy with that and i didnt want to run anymore boost then i already was. So with the changes to the map we were able to get phernominal torque out of the RB20 around the 4500 rpm range, the KKR430 comes on HARD now and basically the torque curve in 3rd gear is near verticle, in 4th it is equally massive. several times the car tried to climb out the dyno... crazy!

Final figure was 197.4 rwkw's on 1 bar boost, Runs were done in 4th gear.

I have taken pics of the dyno graph, however Jeff is going to be changing this in the very near future to smooth out those midrange mixtures some more.

All in all im very happy with the results.. On the road it basically translates to massive wheel spin when i floor it in 3rd and even more wheelspin when i grab 4th :)

Big thanks to Jeff from The Speed Lab for persisting through all the related ECU and chip drama's and Steve from jazmac for helping out and the Dyno hire.

1003854cm2.th.jpg

Power run showing AF mixes in 4th gear

1003855iv3.th.jpg

Pink is 3rd gear and Red is 4th gear... Keep in mind that power and torque figures are accurate in 4th gear...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129817-dyno-run-with-kkr430-turbo/
Share on other sites

Do you want an honest opinion or a pat on the back?

PM me if you want the honest opinion off the forum.

Pat on the back follows;

Looks like a good value for money result.

:D cheers :stupid:

Edited by Sydneykid

From thier own website

KKR-430

Intended for 2.0–2.5L engines, this turbo features a T3-size exhaust flange. This makes it an ideal upgrade turbo for RB20DET and RB25DET engines*. Rated at 430hp, it is suitable for drift and street performance applications, where minimal lag is preferred. It uses a 2.75in V-band flange for the exhaust outlet (V-band and flange included).

Tested on an RB25DET at Panther Aftermarket, it produced 230kW at the wheels with only 11.5psi of boost. The standard internal wastegate is designed to hold 11–12psi.

230rwkw/11psi/rb25 - doubt it

Do you want an honest opinion or a pat on the back?

PM me if you want the honest opinion off the forum.

Pat on the back follows;

Looks like a good value for money result.

:D cheers :stupid:

thats just it, people feel the need to make opinions because its a cheap turbo and bush bearing, but at the end of the day it makes power and it costs bugger all doing it.

wheelspin in 4th with 197rwkw?? Do you have granite tyres?? :D

I was thinking the same thing. I spin in 3rd when planting my 400rwhp datto with 195s and stupid camber......but with 350rwhp I hardly ever did...not to mention the 280rwhp you have. No offence but whats the go?

Get those af ratios to 12 and youll be making more poke.

Well done but do as above and enjoy more power.

I was thinking the same thing. I spin in 3rd when planting my 400rwhp datto with 195s and stupid camber......but with 350rwhp I hardly ever did...not to mention the 280rwhp you have. No offence but whats the go?

Get those af ratios to 12 and youll be making more poke.

Well done but do as above and enjoy more power.

wheelspin is provoked by torque delivery being so sudden rather then peak power figure. and yeah the tyres on the back were a bit average, 235/45/17's however poor quality rubber.

I think that's because it's accelarating from a low speed. If he was at say 4000rpm in 2nd gear even throttle then planted it, the boost would come on quickly after a second or so whereas with a bb turbo it would be more gradual resulting in less wheelspin.

That's how it looks to me anyway. I have driven a car the same as mine with a KKR turbo and that's what it feels like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...