Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sup fellas! :)

here's the situation... im currently trying to make my car (R33 GTST S1) reliable much as i can by replacing/installing all those small things... and below are the things that ive done so far:

* exhaust system (no dump atm)

* air pod with a s/steel intake pipe inside a carbon induction box

* fmic

* oil cooler

* bov

* oil catch can

* heavy duty timing belt

* air diversion plate

* new rotors & braking pads

* new battery

are there anything else worth replacing in order make my vechile more reliable before moving to the next stage with bigger turbos, ecu etc?! i jst wanna make all those lil preps to avoid any possible problems later on :mellow:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129832-how-to-enhance-reliability/
Share on other sites

Maybe a new Fuel Filter and the Fuel pump voltage supply mod.

Braided Brake lines - the Aus approved ones with rubber flex ends & change fluid to Dot5 maybe.

Larger Ryco Z9 os similar size HP oil filter.

Vented top cover on Coil packs for cooling.

Fan on Oil cooler thermo switched.

Small cooler on power steering lines.

Just my .02c

Iridi are a waste of money.

A set of coppers will last you a good 6-12 months depending on how many km/s you do.

That said for relibility, keep the stock turbo to a limit of 10psi.

When you go over that, change turbos etc etc is when things start to become maintainance needy, some cars are fine, others are not. Its really luck of the draw.

But the more you change, the more maintainance thats required, and those costs are higher

Definately get a fuel pump in there. All the stockers are rubbish.

And leave the stock BOV, or change to GTR BOV.

Iridi's/platinums a waste of money??

Think about it, they'll last you like 4-5 years, compared to 6-12 months for copper...

I'm not sure of the cost but even if the copper ones are 1/5th the price, thats still hassle changing them so often.

I'd go the platinums. $150 max and they're done.

Iridi's/platinums a waste of money??

Think about it, they'll last you like 4-5 years, compared to 6-12 months for copper...

Provided the following doesnt happen

1) AFM gets dirty and over fuels/under fuels for a while

2) Fuel pump dies

3) Fuel reg dies

You can see a tread appearing cant you? :(

Its very easy to sh|t a set of plugs for any number of reasons. Hence if you have a stiff run, 6 months later you fuel reg dies.... then suddenly your up for $270 odd for just spark plugs in 6 months, thats just insane

Think of how many coppers can be purchased for that money

Been a good 3 years since i wasted money on Iridi... if i recall i paid $110-$120, then they fouled due to a fuel reg dying 3 months later.

They might well have come down in price, and mine was retail, not trade.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...