Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 front cut

Engine and gearbox gone

Brake booster $30

R32 instrument cluster 106k manual $100

R33 GTST Series 2 Full set of seats $500

R33 GTST Series 2 Rear arm rests side pods $100

R33 GTST Door sill guards (they have Skyline printed on them) $50

R33 GTST Standard suspension with King Low Springs rear only $150

R33 GTST Tail lights white $300 for both

R33 GTST Series 2 Dash Cluster manual 88000kays $150

2 R33 GTR 3 guage Din $80 each

White bootlid with R33 series 2 spoiler. $200

R33 Catback exhaust 3" no restrictions mild steel with cannon 4.5" $450

Gold Coast

Will deliver

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129890-r32-half-cut-and-r33-parts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

is there any chance of getting a slightly clearer pic of the HKS exhaust temp gauge as im very interested but cant even read the face of it.

thanks pm pic if you want to.

Rb20 and GTR Pete :huh:

Sorry forgot to add that in origional post lol

Jst wondering if that oil cooler has gone and if it is for a or 33 =)

I have not heard anything from the origional buyer so if im not contacted it will go to 2nd in line it is a very popular cooler :)

do you mind if i ask what the F-com will do? fuel or ignition or both? and how old are they? if they are for rb20 than im gessing around that age?

has the exhaust gauge sold yet?

and also wondering if the hks ssq bov sound the same as the new ones?

Edited by DJRIFT

Pm's replied

Jason it doesnt include the temp sensor and ill get back to you with better pics when i get back from Sydney on Tuesday.

ES86 It doesnt include any loom however they can be bought over the counter at Jaycar. :D

Damo The Fcons are completely programable fuel computers that run inconjunction with the standard computer.

The Exhaust guage is still available and the SQ BOV does sound different to the SSQ

It is not as direct and high pitch as the SSQ is.

Sorry about the late updates i am in Sydney at the moment and will be back on Tuesday night.

is the FCON suitable for the rb25det? does it come with all the neccessary wiring harness?

Only RB20 and RB26 sorry.

hey bud, i am after a bov for my stock r33 gtst. what have you got? can you show me pics? i am in sydney...

These 2nd hand blow off valves are the only ones i have and apart from the one with the pipe kit will require a flange to be made. :)

Aaron I will take the wheels. PM your banking details please. And also oil cooler for r33?? Is it sold?

PM Sent

ill take the hks bov thats not attached to the piping give ya 55 posted.let me knwo via pm and ill transfer you across soem cash.

Done, you have pm.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...