Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've just bought a r33 series 2 turbo, stock apart from pod, and 3 inch exhaust (mandrel bent) turbo back and hi flow cat. I'm putting on a turbotech boost contoller. I am sure this has been asked 1000 times before, but what is a safe level of boost to run (engine has done 55000km - thought to be close to genuine).

Any help much appreciated

Cheers

Jeremy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130450-safe-boost-level/
Share on other sites

Jpowys 10psi is about the max id recomend but it is debatable some have run 14psi for long periods and some have let go at 10psi or less. with a stock intercooler on a hot day you may run into problems. Have a look at the r33 tuning guide on my site it provides good info and saves you searching all over the place.

cheers

obviously depends on the age etc..

up to 10-11 is cool, But should be fine for up to 12-14, but would recommend replacing it anyway though!

best to be safe than sorry!

some people go for second hand gtr's, dont go for that, just get a walbro or bosch, think they go for 040 and 044, also known as bosch motorsport pump

obviously depends on the age etc..

up to 10-11 is cool, But should be fine for up to 12-14, but would recommend replacing it anyway though!

best to be safe than sorry!

some people go for second hand gtr's, dont go for that, just get a walbro or bosch, think they go for 040 and 044, also known as bosch motorsport pump

Nothing wrong with a GTR pump....Much more reliable than the Walbro's.

Evil Wvl = If the standard GTST fuel pump performed to specs then it is suitable for around 225RWKW. Unfortunately, this is hardly every the case.

fuel pump....when would this start to not flow enough and with what mods?

and what do people replace their stock fuel pumps with?

(sorry to hi'jack thread)

I've about to install a fuel pump from a 300ZX twin turbo. Suitable for up to 260RWKW.

thanks for the replies guys. What is a upgraded fuel pump worth? Sorry GTR_legend, i was not sure what you meant by "040 and 044"... Do you mean $40 or $44 dollars? Also, once i have installed the BC and established what seems to be a safe boost level, is there anything else I need to do?

Edited by Jpowys
Sorry GTR_legend, i was not sure what you meant by "040 and 044"... Do you mean $40 or $44 dollars?

040 and 044 are models of Bosh Fuel pumps.

once i have installed the BC and established what seems to be a safe boost level, is there anything else I need to do?

Need to do? Start saving coz once you've got the mod bug it never stops. :)

i have read that with stock intercooler 10psi would be sufficient for daily driving - but dont take my word for it.

Im planning to put an aftermarket intercooler next year, and bumping up the turbo to 10psi - I believe any more than 10psi and the ecu will go crazy.....

I believe any more than 10psi and the ecu will go crazy.....

By go crazy you mean r&r? The ECU will only hit r&r when it detects excessive levels of knock/pinging. Some guys hit it at 9Psi. Some guys wont hit it till 13Psi. Some guys hit it earlier than others coz they use shitty fuels or have crappy injectors. So many more variables other then just simply upping the boost. The ECU does not ready how much boost you run.

R&R isn't caused by pinging or knocking, your motor will still ping and knock if its got normal unleaded petrol and no R&R kicks in to stop it, its caused by excessive air flow, in a series2 the max boost the stock ecu likes is 10psi, any higher and R&R kicks in, i know cause i have a S2.

When the stock ecu gets the reading from the AFM when boost is over 10psi it thinks something is wrong and starts the R&R as a safety net as not to stuff your motor. On S1's i think its about 12psi. But in saying all that i have also read that some people were able to get more from stock ecu's in S2's. I also thought the stock turbo runs out of huff past 12psi, anything over this and it just blows hot air. Plus you have to be careful that it doesn't throw the ceramic exhaust wheel out as this is the weak link in the turbo when boosted past 10-12psi.

Ohh and by the way, i don't think you did use the search button, this has been dicussed many times before.

this is what i think is safe you just got your car right, get use to the power it already has for a few months, you'll probably be trashing it everyday in the first 3 months, so its safe to run stock boost, (hint, with 10psi and trashing it everyday, bye bye turbo)

then get your turbotech, pur it on 10Psi you could try 12Psi on really cold nights just to c how it feels, run your 10 Psi all the time but to trash it in hot days, when you get a front mount you can trash it abit harder,

or maybe get that flick switch thing boostcontroller set it to 11Psi and stock, 11 cause you'nt be runing it all the time... get me...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...