Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

JMS+R33+drift.jpg

JMS+R33+drift+2.jpg

JMS+R33+drift+1.jpg

JMS+R33+drift+3.jpg

JMS+R33+drift+4.jpg

JMS+R33+drift+5.jpg

JMS+R33+drift+6.jpg

this is how its done,I would change the front bar but with plenty of dish it looks fat as f**k...what are they 10s, 12s??

though unfortunately i think alot of troublesome guard work was involved >_<

I'm not sure if I've posted in here. But here is some anyway. Some are old... some are new... most are average cos I can't take photos

16800418378785496741321.jpg

img2113yi.jpg

yeah it doesnt seem to sit as nice as your old wheels did, maybe its different in the flesh i dunno..

these photos is where it sits just right IMO anyway , not sure if the first pic is lower than the second

..If you wanted it to look more low just get different skirts..put your old wheels back and get an Explosive kit Blags..

Top pic is: 17x9.5 -2 front 18x.10.5 +15 rear

Second pic is: 17x9.5 +18 all round with 245/40

New rears are: 18x10.5 +-0

blags quest for the perfect fitment, you could write a thread about it..lol..

I dunno but im more of a tuck than a poke man so my opinion may be different to yours and others

I think rim should be close as possible to flush with guard, tyre size is determined by what will then fit under the guard without too much stretch. And stretch front and rear should be even..having a rear stretched more than the front looks unbalanced..and rather silly IMO..camber should also be close as possible to even front and rear..

in your case from a stance only view, I think the 17 fornt 18 rear worked really well and what it needed was a better bodykit to make it all work without the need for excessive lowering..

i havent been to stance nation for a while so maybe im outta touch :P

blags quest for the perfect fitment, you could write a thread about it..lol..

I dunno but im more of a tuck than a poke man so my opinion may be different to yours and others

I think rim should be close as possible to flush with guard, tyre size is determined by what will then fit under the guard without too much stretch. And stretch front and rear should be even..having a rear stretched more than the front looks unbalanced..and rather silly IMO..camber should also be close as possible to even front and rear..

in your case from a stance only view, I think the 17 fornt 18 rear worked really well and what it needed was a better bodykit to make it all work without the need for excessive lowering..

i havent been to stance nation for a while so maybe im outta touch :P

Yer I guess I could do a nice little write up haha.

It all depends on what you like. I was running xd9's about 2-3 years ago and ever since I continued to get more and more aggressive sizing and offsets. I went back to running 17's all round with sticky rubber because I am getting into a bit of track work.

17's front and 18's rear worked a treat... there was no way you would see a 33 as low as mine.

Going back to a less aggressive set up now and probably staying that way....

Stay tuned for more photos ;)

while on the tyre/ stance subject. im about to get some new tyres, currently running 235 /45 and if i run a 5mm slip it sits just right, would i be right in assuming i could go a 245/40 all round in the same tyre?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...